Site Preparation Guidelines
Prefab Garages

Please check with your local municipality about the required base for a building housing cars or trucks. Some areas may require the vehicle sit on concrete, rather than a wood floor. Our garages may come with or without the floor, at no extra cost. Also, local codes and practices regarding concrete and foundation requirements may apply.

This information is only intended as a
GENERAL GUIDELINE

For a garage WITH a floor: A level pad of ¾" crushed stone, 3" – 4” deep, 1' larger than the size of the garage (for example, a 20’ x 24’ building would require a pad at least 21’ x 25’). This will allow for better drainage around the perimeter of the garage for rain/snow melt dripping off the eaves - especially, if you are not planning on installing rain gutters. Water splashing directly onto the ground will, eventually, create a muddy area and splash up onto the garage walls. The gravel base prevents this to extend the life of the building.

• To prepare a gravel base, remove the sod from an area slightly larger than the pad, level the site by removing dirt where necessary, and spread the gravel to a depth of about three or four inches. Tamp the gravel down with a piece of 4-by-4 or metal tamper until it is evenly distributed and the site is flat and level.

• A "frame" of pressure-treated 4x4's or cement block will help keep the stone in place and create a neater appearance; however, it is not required.

For a garage WITHOUT a floor, still delivered in two modular pieces: A level concrete slab at least 4” thick and at least a foot larger than the building in length and width, as with the gravel pad. You may want to consider a 6" thick slab for larger vehicles such as trucks or RVs.

For a garage WITHOUT a floor - BUILT ON SITE: Prepare a level concrete slab at least 4” thick and to the exact, outside, dimensions of your garage. You may want to consider a 6" thick slab for larger vehicles such as trucks or RVs.

Frame out the perimeter with 2” x 4” or 2” x 6” pressure treated lumber, except for where the door will be, and anchor the wood into the concrete. It is very important to prepare your concrete pad, including wood frame, to the exact size of the building because we extend the exterior siding down over the slab, and frame, to prevent water from coming back up into the garage.

Again, we advise soliciting the expertise of a professional contractor who is familiar with local conditions and requirements to ensure you get the best foundation possible for your garage.

NOT RECOMMENDED: Cinder blocks. Inevitably, there will be some "settling" after your garage is delivered and placed on site. Placing a garage up on cinder blocks greatly increases the risk that it will settle unevenly. This can create twisting and offset door and window frames. Additionally, delivery and placement of the garage can be with more difficult with cinder blocks as a base.

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