Making the most of your backyard space may include creating lawns and areas for the kids to play, the addition of a playset, designing functional vegetable gardens and increasing the aesthetic value with pretty beds of flowers, spectacular shrubberies, or majestic trees.
If you want to make the world of difference to your property, consider going 3D in a simple and fun way by building a pergola or pavilion. These structures not only look great, but they also offer a boost to your outdoor living lifestyle by increasing the amount of time you can spend outside regardless of weather impediments such as hot sun or summer showers.
Building an outdoor living structure is like putting together a giant jigsaw puzzle and it’s a fun filled experience that the whole family can be involved in making it a satisfying and educational event that yields more than just a great structure at the end of the day. Ensure you keep children a safe distance away when moving, lifting, or raising the heavier parts of the kit such as headers and posts. Kids love to be involved in finding the right bolt or handing you the right screws on the ground and are all good learning opportunities.
The ‘whole kit and caboodle’ arrives with components all pre-drilled/measured and all materials included. Building it is akin to working with a massive Lego set that is all pre-engineered to fit together in perfect unison. It’s the best jig-saw puzzle ever.
A two-person crew may be needed to lift rafters atop the frame and secure framing members for the roof of a pavilion and finish the roof. Detailed instructions arrive with the kit and just a few tools are needed that are usually readily available in most homeowner’s toolbox. Let’s Dig In
The site needs to be level and ready to go before you start building a pergola or pavilion, and the kit package should be set as close as possible to the site and left unopened and protected from the weather until you are ready to start.
Timewise you should allow approximately 4-5 hours for two people to put together a pergola that is 10’ x 14’, but of course the timeline depends on the talent and experience of the crew. A pavilion will require more time as it is a bit more involved. The roof will require ridge installation and roofing materials will need to be laid. Measure Carefully
In any building project the number one rule is to be accurate with the measurements. When you purchase a kit for a pergola or pavilion a lot of the guesswork is taken out of the project as the materials are prefabricated making the construction easier to do right and more pleasurable to undertake.
In fact, building from a kit can make Mom and Dad with very average construction talents look like rockstars of the building trade! As long as you don’t mind climbing a ladder and being on the roof of the pavilion wielding a hammer or stapling down tar paper. Read. Read. Read.
The manual provided with each kit is simple to follow and has illustrations that showcases exactly what needs to be done and in what order. Unlike working with a 2D jigsaw on the coffee table over the holidays the 3D jigsaw will be a bit more involved. You can’t just start with the straight pieces and go to the middle later.
A few thorough read throughs of the entire manual will help you retain and understand the process. Try and pick a good weather day without blistering heat or rain to complete the project and take lots of breaks to refresh and reread the manual. It’s a lot easier to do it right the first time. More Posts More Labor
A simple rectangular structure with four posts will obviously be easier to assemble than a larger 6 or 8 post structure. That’s something to consider when you are sizing the project before you purchase the kit. Maintenance Madness
If you are like many busy homeowners, you like doing things once and not having to come back and repeat and repair the job later.
Think about choosing modern products such as Azek and vinyl rather than traditional wood if you want a low maintenance option. Similarly, a metal roof rather than a shingle roof may be your best choice as it will last longer without requiring repairs. The Pergola/Pavilion Advantage Over the Gazebo
All three outdoor living structures provide added value for a healthy outdoor lifestyle, but the advantage of building a pergola or pavilion is that they offer a gathering space that is readily adaptable for both small and larger family events. They will accommodate varying numbers of visitors whereas the gazebo will be limited in its ability to host the number of guests at an event by its interior space defined by the fixed walls. The EZ Shade Advantage
To provide additional protection to the occupants of the pergola or pavilion from the sun’s rays or cool breezes, consider purchasing an EZ Shade. The versatility this product offers is a valuable adjunct to the functionality of the structure.
Many horse property owners love the idea of landscaping around their horse barn but don’t know where to start. Dressing up the horse yard can add much beauty and aesthetic appeal to the space.
Practical personal touches such as welcome mats to minimize muddy footprints, benches to perch on to watch the world go by waiting for a ride, containers planted with bright annuals to protect vulnerable posts from errant parking accidents are some great ideas to get started making your barn the most useful and best it can be. But permanent horse farm landscaping both hard and soft, should be undertaken with some careful planning.
There are plenty of resources available as to what plants/trees/flowers you should select, what to avoid as they may be toxic to horses, and how to lay out a garden for textural interest, seasonal appeal and proportion and layout of hard and soft landscapes in a space.
But here are some special considerations outside of the normal gardening practices and toxicity factors of soft plantings that you may wish to consider.
1. Is Growing Fast Going to Last?
It is part of the modern-day culture that folks want everything to magically appear as ‘complete’ in short order and as a consequence property owners often choose plants and trees that are fast-growing. The problem with fast growing nursery stock is that often it is not as securely rooted or doesn’t have the longevity that slower growing options provide.
Carefully evaluate the overall suitability of the site location, proximity to existing structures and the timeline for soft landscaping to reach maturity, and the height and breadth that such greenery may attain before you dig that square hole for the balled-up rootstock.
Trees that are upright in profile are less likely to scratch, dent or ding high sided vehicles such as horse trailers with overhanging branches than trees with an umbrella profile. Though the latter may offer valuable shade options for hand grazing a horse beneath after a bath on a hot summer day.
Going up rather than out with the form of the trees selected, is a generally a good choice for lining driveways. Pretty ornamental pear trees with their stunning white flowers in Spring, rustling Poplars that mirror rural French roadways and curtain noise from nearby road traffic or coniferous trees that offer windbreak protection in winter months are all good choices to line driveways.
Always consider how the grass areas are going to be maintained. Trees with low spreading boughs can impede the passage of the safety rollbar on zero turn mowers and tractors. As a result, large areas of long grass will need to be trimmed around these plantings, causing extra labor and time for someone if the horse barn landscape is to be kept pristine and well-appointed. Similarly stone walls and fence lines will need extra attention at their bases to keep grass at bay. It is particularly hard to strim vegetation around wire fences.
Trees planted close to a building also pose a risk of damage to the structure as they grow and exceed the roof height and may topple in high winds or lose boughs and branches. General directions suggest planting deciduous trees that are likely to attain the 70-100 feet range in height, a minimum of 30 feet from a structure.
2. Trees and Shrubs Will Flower and Fruit
Mother Nature’s reproduction program necessarily means that trees and shrubs will flower and afterward produce seedlings, often in the form of fruit, berries, nuts, cones, and other means of propagation.
The question is does the barn owner want to attract the wildlife that comes with nature’s bountiful provisions? Apples and fruit attract bees and wasps, nuts attract squirrels, and seemingly every type of shrub attracts deer! All wildlife carries with it the risk of transmitting disease to livestock. Whether it be from ticks, feces, or other means of contamination.
Think carefully about planting a deep-rooting Persimmon tree or American Filbert (hazelnut) tree that are highly attractive to many species of fauna.
Wildlife can also cause significant property damage if animals take up residence in the barn or underneath it. Smoke bombing woodchucks out of their barn tunnel haven can result in fires to the building. Eradication of wildlife from any structure is always a difficult task to complete effectively and safely.
Juice from fruits and berries can also be tracked to the interior of the building and cause paint damage to vehicles. For example, Elderberry trees offer a bounty of berries in late summer, but their rich red hue tramped across your new wood floor in the tack room may not be a welcome addition to the color palette.
3. Out of Sight Should Not Mean Out of Mind
Deep-rooting trees and shrubs should not be planted close to or over well/ town water or sewer pipes or cable/telephone lines. Even if they don’t damage the service lines below by wrapping their roots around them, if it becomes necessary to excavate the area to remedy a broken or blocked pipe or update or upgrade the cable or electrical system, trees and shrubs will need to be removed.
4. Mulching Mayhem
It is common to add mulch to garden areas to provide a moisture barrier to evaporation of water. Certain types of wood/rubber chips and treatments they receive may be toxic to horses
Bear in mind that high winds often lift chips/debris from garden beds and cause mulching mayhem with the ‘whirling dervish’ effect created. These chips may then be deposited in grazing areas and may be toxic if ingested by a horse.
5. How Much Water?
In cold climate it is a good idea to add some form of weatherproof watering system such as a frost-free faucet outside the barn that is handy for use for watering the garden all year around. Automated systems are very useful in warmer climates and can additionally save on water wastage.
Water run-off/snow melt from the roof of the horse barn on the other hand, should be guttered and taken away from the structure. Not only does this help prevent flooding in and around the barn, the high rate of discharge of excess water from a roof can make a muddy mess both on the ground and splashed onto the side of the building and will wash out soil around plants.
Some roof types may even discharge toxic water. Never use roof run-off for a horse’s water needs and risk ingestion of toxic or contaminated water.
6. Consider the Ins and Outs
The layout and materials used in the horse farm landscaping design should account for snow plowing needs in areas where snowfall is likely. Access to all building ingress/egress points will require snow removal for safety, and emergency and daily use. Consider keeping access paths at least 10’ wide, so larger equipment may be utilized if needed.
Similarly high traffic areas will require drainage solutions be installed to avoid muddy walkways during heavy rain events and ice conditions in cold climates. Planning and implementing drainage solutions before laying gravel, concrete or grass can eliminate not just headaches in daily use but also prevent injury to horse and human.
7. Hardscape Distances
Paths should be wide enough to accommodate a horse being led with handler at its side.
For barns with center aisles, access with UTVs or tractors may be needed for daily chores such as mucking out stalls.
Allow enough space for large equipment to turn around in parking and access areas. The off-track for large trailers is substantial and gate widths should also accommodate even the less talented drivers!
When a permanent structure is added to a property its legacy will extend far beyond one lifetime. Well – it will if it is properly built and considers property stewardship! For property owners that seek to develop their parcels of land into equestrian facilities, consideration of the future of the build beyond their ownership is not always high on the priority list.
However big or small the overall size of the equine operation is projected to be or become, land development comes with a set of responsibilities that goes beyond paying taxes and keeping the grass, cover crop or woods maintained.
Ideally, when property owners seek to construct permanent structures, such as houses and barns, responsible stewardship and consideration for all aspects of environmental impact will be addressed.
There are times when you want to build something that stands out, but there is also a moral obligation to consider the short and long-term consequences of building an architecturally startling structure.
You don’t want to be ‘that neighbor’, the one that moves into an area of natural beauty or buys a heritage plot of land and proceeds to develop a home or barn that is a blot on the existing landscape.
Would you have a conscience about blocking a neighbor’s view with a multi-level brightly colored house? Or constructing a horse barn that looked out of place among a scenic valley of Dutch influenced Gambrel roofed farm buildings? Would you think twice about whether your barn design blended into the landscape or stood out announcing your presence in the neighborhood for all to duly note if not perhaps admire?
Taking note that whatever you choose to build will likely be a legacy and survive long after you have either moved away or passed on means planning further ahead. Consideration for not just the quality of the build so that it offers longevity but also the design, style, size and color of the structure and how it integrates into an existing view is not on everyone’s to do list. Even when they acknowledge the permanence of their decision and its environmental impact. Respect for history and sensitivity to a heritage site, realization that stewardship of the land is temporary, that a moral obligation exists to consider the relevance of a roof material or engineering method is often overlooked.
While deed restrictions such as view protections, heights and locations of new builds etc. do exist, there are many cases where no such preservation methods prevail at the time of the land sale.
In most cases no compromise to the efficiency or low maintenance needs of a modern barn design needs to be made if you seek to honor the style of a traditional horse barn.
Mortise and tenon engineered timber frame barns can mirror the bygone days of historical estate builds when land is inevitably sold off for development around existing mansions or houses. Horizon Structures clients, such as Mark and Lynda Mscisz are examples of folks that took special consideration of the moral responsibility of keeping old world charm alive, when they purchased lands on the William Coolidge Estate in Topsfield, MA, and did just that and are now the proud owners of a Horizon structures timber frame barn that is the envy of friends and equestrian neighbors.
Consider siting a Monitor style barn in the sandy scenery of the southwest, that identifies with the cowboy lifestyles and barns built in that era as the homesteaders of New England travelled West. The great ventilation a Monitor style barn offers is the perfect horse housing answer for regions where high temperatures are common.
Do you live in an area where tobacco farming was common? Why not give a nostalgic nod to the Kentucky tobacco industry and color the siding of your new center aisle barn (replete with an overhang and gable roof) with a black stain?
Low maintenance stains that can offer protection for 15 years are now available and can keep labor and material costs down in future years.
When it comes to barn design and colors, there is much inspiration to be found in history. And when it comes to implementing those designs and updating them to this century, there are a myriad of products that a modular barn building company can offer that honor the past while satisfying contemporary concerns and needs.
There are times when you want to stand out. But there are also times when you want to stand up and preserve the traditional architectural appeal of the area that you have just moved into.
After all, you probably moved into the region because that is what you liked about the place in the first place.
The initial expense of a new horse barn will likely stretch any horse owner’s finances. Despite the option that larger construction companies provide with financing availability, not everyone wants to invest in a large horse barn.
Additionally, there may be factors, other than cost, that limit barn choices. For example: zoning restrictions or landscape/property features. Regardless of circumstances, everyone wants to enjoy the ‘best bang for their buck” when building their barn.
The Double Wide layout barn style offers a creative answer to some challenging barn building questions…
How can you solve the dilemma of building a budget-friendly horse barn that will serve multiple needs without making a major investment?
What’s the best barn/stable layout when space is limited or zoning is restricting height and square footage allowances?
The increasingly popular Double Wide horse barn offers functional solutions.
Modular horse barn companies have long offered shed-row style structures for horse housing that address some of these issues, and this style of building is very popular for many good reasons. But with hot sun and driving rain, the shed-row style cannot offer full protection from inclement weather and provides limited interior storage space for supplies and equipment or a place to groom and tack up a horse.
The Double Wide barn solves the issue by combining a shed row with the affordable enhanced shelter of a side aisle addition. This is achieved by an enclosed overhang construction that follows the long side of the barn on the stall-facing side of the shed-row.
The advantages of this simple modification are tremendous…
The enclosed area makes cleaning stalls and other barn chores MUCH easier for you regardless of the weather. Wind, rain, snow, and ice stay OUTSIDE.
The aisleway provides a relatively clean environment for your vet or farrier to work on your horse. Contamination from wind-blown sand or dirt and mud are greatly reduced if not eliminated altogether.
Electric access can be conveniently on hand with outlets placed between each stall. Lighting can also be added in the aisle making it possible to work in the barn after dark. This is especially important during winter’s shortened daylight hours.
Includes more secure, dry, ground level storage space for hay, feed, tack, and equipment.
The Double Wide layout is truly a blessing and may be the perfect answer to anyone whose property is small and/or restricted by challenging landscape features that need to be worked around.
Other advantages of this barn style are minimal site preparation (principally a level pad with support footers/sonotubes for the overhang pillars), quick set up and an attractive price point. You can easily see why the Double Wide a popular choice.
Thankfully the modular or prefab option is available for Double Wides. And it offers many advantages over an on-site build.
A modular building company will deliver the building in one of two ways depending on the configuration you choose…
Two pre-built sections are delivered and joined on site. This alleviates the noise, stress, and time delays of having to wait on a pole or stick built construction project.
One pre-built shedrow section with the overhang/’aisle’ section erected on-site/after delivery. The side walls beneath the overhang and at the gable ends may be enclosed entirely or partially enclosed creating the protected space for daily chores to be completed by equine caregivers, vets, or farriers to work, and storage needs for hay, tack, and equipment to be secure.
The key factor that makes the Double Wide stable layout so attractive from a financial standpoint is the simplicity of the design. The barn can be entirely functional with an aisleway available without the additional expense of a center-aisle design barn and as explained there are many times when a horse owner will appreciate its availability.
The double-wide design is also evidently an excellent barn choice as it provides the utility of a totally enclosed barn/workspace with a smaller overall ‘footprint’ if available space is limited.
There is the option to add sliding stall doors and grill stall fronts to increase ventilation and give the ‘feel’ of a center aisle barn. Installation of sliding ‘aisle’ doors with windows either on one or both, of the gable ends also gives the feel and utility of a ‘big boy’ center aisle barn in a smaller, sweeter package.
Property owners don’t always have the luxury of large wide expanses of land where a new barn can be situated. The Double Wide barn provides a valuable alternative design, which can be easily placed in a more confined area that may offer plenty of length but not enough width to accommodate stalls on each side of a 12’ aisle.
It is a design well worth considering if you’d rather pay less than a center-aisle barn will likely cost, but don’t want to compromise on enjoying the benefits that an aisleway will provide or if you have limited site options on your property that will dictate your barn choices.
Savings due to reduced site prep costs also apply when a Double Wide design is chosen over the standard center aisle barn. This is because the former requires fewer footers (*sonatubes). Additionally, less cubic feet of crushed stone/stone dust will need to be purchased and installed for a Double Wide site versus a standard Center Aisle barn construction. Eliminating the center aisle section saves money beyond the cost of the structural materials used for the build.
Aside from cost savings and the site match, another advantage of a Double Wide barn design is for breeding facilities, such as stallion barns. The horses are not able to see each other across the aisle, which can equate to a more harmonious environment for stallions, as there is less opportunity for intimidation or angst that can be created when stallions see each other ‘eye to eye.’
If you’ve ever found yourself racing to saddle up your steed in the rain, mucked stalls with Dutch doors being blown out of your hands in gusts of wind and been pelted with hail while figuring out where to put those hay bales, then doubling down on your investment with the Double Wide design might be the answer.
Double Wide barns can also be built with a second floor / loft and lean…
After careful consideration, we have decided we will no longer be including playsets in the Horizon Structures product line. We appreciate your understanding and thank you for your support. If you have any questions or need assistance, please feel free to reach out to us on 888-447-4337 or sales@horizonstructures.com.
The choice of playsets is vast and varied and figuring out the best one to select for your family as a parent or grandparent can be a difficult task.
Considerations of available space, site and setting for the new playset, construction materials and design, price and of course, the ages and interests of the lucky children that will enjoy the healthy benefits of utilizing the playset all play into making the perfect decision.
Here’s some help to give you confidence in making the right swing set and playset choice for your individual needs.
Space, Siting and Setting
Everyone has a different scale of backyard and space to layout a playset. Variances in grade and type of terrain, sun and shade aspects, drainage concerns, distance from neighbors and the view from the house will determine the location of exactly where to place the new playset to a large degree.
Points to consider:
Choose a level area to avoid extra costs for regrading the garden and avoid the associated extra costs and hassle such actions would incur. Don’t place the playset in an area prone to flooding or a site that offers poor drainage as this will necessarily increase the amount of possible contamination of the soil on site and the amount of pesky bugs including mosquitoes in the immediate vicinity.
Access for delivery of materials such as sand, wood or rubber mulch, artificial turf and the playset itself. Concrete should never be used as a base for a playset for obvious reasons.
It’s a good idea to select a site in partial sun/shade especially if you live in a hot climate. Also bear in mind falling leaves and clean up needs in Fall if you designate a shady spot under a large tree and the likelihood of damage to the playset from falling branches in high winds.
Placement of playset should be away from obstacles such as tree trunks, fences, sheds and other hard surfaces such as concrete driveways.
A site that is within easy view of the house will add another level of safety and playset should not be close to public access such as roads to ensure privacy and security of the children.
Fencing in your backyard from intruders, roaming neighborhood dogs or wildlife in rural areas will help keep the playset area free of animal feces, though cats’ innate attraction to digging in sand to use as a bathroom may always be a problem.
Setting the playset against a backdrop of a hedge or garden area will nestle the playset into the landscape if you don’t want it to stand out. Traditional wood playsets treated with eco-friendly stains can provide longevity of product if brighter vinyl ‘kid pleasing’ colors are not wanted.
Neighbors may not appreciate the noise your children will inevitably make enjoying themselves playing on the set. Try not to ‘plant’ the playset right next to a neighbor’s pool/patio or outside living area if this might be an issue.
Check if a build permit is needed. While this is unlikely different restrictions apply in different regions especially for larger builds.
Wood Versus Vinyl and Don’t Forget Quality
Most people have a very strong preference for one over the other. Be particularly sensitive to the preferences of the actual property owners if you are buying a playset for someone else, especially when buying for grandkids and setting up in their parents’ backyard.
Here is a super reference on the pros and cons of wood and vinyl options.
Whether you choose wood or vinyl, the most important criteria for any swing set and playset you buy is that of good quality. Safety and durability of the playset are both significantly impacted by exactly how the playset is constructed and the materials that are used and how they are engineered.
Key components to look for are:
No rust and no splinter components throughout the playset.
Through-bolting of all major construction points.
Heavy duty swing bearings.
Use of pressure treated lumber, including where wood is encased in vinyl.
Capped edges with no sharp protrusions.
Durable floorboards that are barefoot friendly and rock walls.
Who you choose to partner with to make your playset purchase is of the utmost importance. Choose a company that stands behind its product with simple to access and easy to understand warranties.
To fund the spend on a new playset consider working with a company that offers financing so that the initial expense can be spread over an extended period, especially if the Spring or Summer season is already here and you want to get maximum use out of the playset right away.
When choosing a playset be aware that many options exist to ‘add as you go.’ This is a great idea if the children are just toddlers. As the kids grow you can make additions to the playset jigsaw puzzle that best serve their athletic abilities and size. Remember playsets have a 2nd life after the kids are all grown and out of the house, either for future generations or can be successfully sold to other families in the secondhand marketplace.
Mountains or Molehills, Swings or Slides?
Our children often surprise us with their abundance of curiosity and interest in finding something new to do and the innate courage and ability to do it.
While ‘Little Jill’ may show interest in swings, you may also find that when presented with a tunnel or climbing frame she loves to engage in make believe.
‘Little Johnny,’ may seem timid to scale anything off the ground and yet climbing a small set of stairs in front of an older sibling may inspire him to take delight in sliding downhill at speed.
Kids always surprise us. One of the best ways to find what your kids like is simply to watch them play on a public playground and see how they navigate and explore the playground. If you want to encourage your kids out of their comfort zone, then adding a variety of options to the playset will offer more activities and build a different set of strengths both mental and physical.
Also consider that other children of friends and family will periodically enjoy the playset. The benefit of having a minimum of 2/3 different activities on the playset, especially those that can be completed alongside will limit arguments over who gets to do what, when!
Whatever You Choose
Remember that whatever playset you choose the kids are going to love it. Freedom to play without the need for a taxi service to friends’ houses or events will give you more free time too.
Being active and outside and away from the ‘screen plague’ is an easy sell to children, and it tiring them out and depleting their seemingly endless energy means a good night’s sleep for everyone.
Watching children at play can be both informative and entertaining. And the best benefit of all is knowing where your kids are, who they are with and what they are ‘up to’.
Obviously, there are a litany of health and developmental benefits that go alongside social play and even just swinging. These discoveries will be made as you go along. Have fun!
Recent outbreak of avian bird flu virus A in the U.S. poultry population has seen over 53 million chickens culled in the State of Iowa alone thus far in 2022. On the East Coast small poultry farmers and homesteaders such as the Monroe County Marsala family in Upstate NY, have also seen their flocks destroyed as a result of the virus. Their cry on You Tube, It’s Real, Cover Your Birds!
Many chicken keepers love to allow their chickens free range access, where their appetite for pecking on pesky bugs, scavenging and scratching around the yard as they fancy for food to eat is part of a healthy lifestyle for the poultry. When chickens remain in an enclosed space there are both advantages and disadvantages to consider, but the change in lifestyle might be something to seriously consider if your chickens are the ‘out on the town’ variety. Knowing how to protect chickens from bird flu is a great step to saving your flocks. Here’s why:
According to the CDC, unless humans come into direct contact with a chicken carrying chicken flu the risks of human contagion are low. Understanding how chickens become infected with the virus is key to avian flu precautions. U Here’s what the CDC explains
“Wild water birds (like ducks and geese) can be infected with avian (bird) influenza (flu) viruses, but usually do not get sick. Infected birds have virus in their saliva, mucous and droppings (feces). Bird flu viruses can spread easily between birds. Some of these viruses can cause serious illness and death in domestic poultry (like chickens, ducks, and turkeys).
Domesticated birds (chickens, turkeys, ducks, etc.) can become infected with bird flu A viruses through direct contact with infected waterfowl or other infected poultry, or through contact with surfaces that have been contaminated with the viruses. Bird Flu is a serious poultry disease and requires rapid response because it is highly contagious and can be fatal to chickens. Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) works with its federal, state, local and industry partners to quickly respond to any bird flu findings. Bird flu A(H5) or A(H7) virus outbreaks in poultry, where depopulation (or culling, also called “stamping out”) of infected flocks is usually carried out.
Provision of a covered chicken run or space adjoining the coop can mitigate the risk of the poultry running ‘afowl’ of infected feces/droppings or mucous surfaces where infected wildlife has brought the virus to roost.
Loss of your chicken flock is not something to joke about, and is extremely upsetting, as the Marsala family indicate in their video. Chickens become more than just an investment in egg production, they are often a part of family life and each chicken has its own individual personality which endears some of them more to us than others.
Options for chicken runs do run the gamut in square footage, size and roof styles. Large or small is probably better than none at all. And the covered area provided protection from overhead predators and neighborhood dogs and roaming wildlife.
Selection of the best chicken coop includes consideration for the outdoor activities of its residents.
Full customization of a chicken coop that includes a built-in run is available at Horizon Structures. From human height access doors for easy caregiving duties to large (4’, 5’ or 6’) to wire floor runs and color options to ensure the coop complements existing structures on the property, the array of choices is mind-boggling.
Interaction with wild birds is much less likely when the chickens are secure in their own run. They are also less likely to have an unwanted interaction with a car or other motorized vehicle or wander off to lay eggs where they won’t be found during egg collection time by the caregiver.
With the increasing prevalence of avian flu in the U.S, it may be time to consider a coop with a build in run. You can shop the lot if you want one right way, or place and order and have it delivered to just the right spot in your backyard.
The care, custody and control responsibilities of working with horses usually includes handling the noble beasts in confined spaces. Daily duties often include leading the horses to and from pastures to the shelter of a stable or horse barn. Whatever the design or style of horse housing utilized, there are many opportunities for accidents to happen that can result in minor or major injuries to horse or human.
Accidents are defined as unexpected events that are not intended but that cause damage or injury. Horses are large, unpredictable creatures of flight so horse trainers/owners/handlers should truly learn to ‘expect the unexpected’ and be proactive in accident prevention.
Sadly, every year many injuries occur that could easily have been prevented with the use of a few simple training techniques for horse and handler. It is not just the neophyte horse owners or caregivers that cause preventable injuries. Often knowledgeable and experienced horse people are lulled into bad practices and become casual in their handling habits regarding their equine charges.
Remember every time you are in a horse’s presence you are teaching it something. Make sure it is something you want it to learn.
The practice of opening the pasture gate and allowing horses to move freely to their barn stalls either ‘en masse’ or individually may seem fun and be quicker to do than taking the time to halter the horse(s) and lead them to the barn, but such actions can also result in horses becoming injured.
Arguments can occur between horses as to who has which stall, inadvertent kicks can cause injury to horses/humans and damage to property, horses can hit their hips entering the stall in a rush etc.
Additionally haltering and leading a horse is a valuable training opportunity.
Here are 5 safe horse handling tips that when consistently implemented may help mitigate the risk for injury to horse and human:
The Simple Stop
It may seem simple but the ‘stop’ offers a significant safety benefit when leading the horse in and out of the barn. Teaching your horse to halt when being led on a halter with the rope is easy to do. Safety caveats include:
Never wrap the rope around the hand or fingers or drape it over your shoulder as a sudden movement from the horse could cause significant injury.
The habit of throwing the lead rope over the horse’s back as it enters the stall alone while the handler stands back can cause injuries such as rope burns to the horse should the rope fall to the floor and the horse step on it.
Ensure the horse’s halter is properly fitted. The noseband should be placed 1” below the cheek bone. Both the noseband and the throat latch should be a snug enough fit to ensure the halter won’t come forward and over the horse’s ears should he back up or come off under the horse’s chin if he rears up or pulls back.
If a lead shank is used instead of a rope, it should not be looped through the halter and clipped back to itself. This could result on a horse stepping a hoof through the loop in the chain if grazing or dropping its head and cause the horse to panic and thus result in serious injury.
Training Tips:
Voice commands should always be used in addition to rope tugs that exert pressure on the noseband of the halter.
The use of the word halt, or whoa, given in a commanding voice in a low tone combined with a light pull and release of the rope is all that should be needed to halt the horse. Remember it is the release that teaches the horse not the application of pressure.
The handler is at the shoulder of the horse and stops alongside the horse at the same time. The horse can be rewarded with praise and a pat on the shoulder and then asked to ‘step up’ or ‘walk on’.
After training test the horse’s understanding of this very basic task by using just the verbal command i.e., the handler walks forward a few steps after issuing the halt command and stands still while asking the horse to step up or walk on.
Eye contact made at the time of the halt and then released when asking the horse to step forward can also be employed.
Should the horse not understand or respond to the halt command it is important not to start a tug of war on the rope. Simply walk forward a few steps and ask again. Eventually the horse will ascertain how easy it is to comply and seek the positive reinforcement reward.
The horse should always be halted before being led into a barn, before being led into or out of a stall or through a doorway to an indoor arena.
This gives the handler the opportunity to ensure there are no obstacles such as tack boxes, skips etc. other horses, pets, children, adults or vehicles blocking or impeding the safe passage of both horse and handler through the door, along an aisleway, or in the stall space.
Horses’ vision is not the same as human vision and does not adapt from light to dark in seconds. It can take more than 30 minutes for a horse to transition to full vision when going from bright outdoor light to the relative darkness of a barn.
During snowy winter months, halting a horse before entering the barn also gives the handler time to garner help to pick snow from the horse’s hooves that may have balled up during cold weather.
Removal of these ‘snow angels’ on barefoot horses or ice/snow packed in shod horses’ feet before attempting to traverse a rubber matted or concrete aisleway will help prevent the horse slipping thus minimizing the chance for soft tissue injury that is especially likely when making a sharp turn into a stall. This precaution may even prevent a horse from going down altogether and fracturing bones such as the pelvis.
Handling Hack: As a seasoned horse trainer I additionally train my horses to mimic my ‘walk like a penguin’ action inside and outside the barn when a covering of snow or ice is on the ground. Taking these ‘little steps’ lessens the likelihood of the horse and myself skating around.
The use of the halt also enables the handler to ensure they are safely placed in optimal position just in front of the horse’s shoulder to step into a stall in advance of the horse and guide the animal through the center of the door entrance. This will help ensure the horse does not bang his hip on a side post which can cause injury or even permanent damage and reduces the risk of a blanket catching on a door frame or stall door latch.
When leading a horse into a stall or paddock it is always wise to take the time to turn the horse around so that it is facing the entrance with the handler at its head. Not only does this eliminate the opportunity for the horse to duck through a door or gate and escape the pasture or stall, but it also minimizes the risk of injury for the handler at the time the horse is released.
It is usual to remain on the inside of the horse and turn him around the handler keeping his head toward the handler as this swings his hind legs away from the human and makes it easier to maintain control. Remember wherever a horse’s head is pointed he will most likely follow.
Horses may also be taught to turn around or move over in the stall when the stall is being mucked out. The use of an intermittent tap on the horse’s girth area together with a verbal cue of ‘move over’ and praise reward when the horse complies, (especially when the horse may be eating), should be trained in the horse from an early age.
Move the horse’s feet to control its mind.
Halter Head Drop
Horses of many breeds tower above humans particularly when they are excited such as when being turned out, feed times etc.
Whenever the horse is to be released either by unclipping the rope and leaving the halter on the horse or by removing the halter, it is more easily and certainly more safely completed if the horse is taught to drop its head for the process and to wait for a verbal cue before turning away or leaving.
Safety note: Always remove halters for turnout if equine hay feeders are present in the pasture to prevent the halter becoming hung up on unnoticed protrusions. Water buckets and hooks in a stall and blanket hardware incorrectly adjusted with the outer edges of clips facing outward, can pose a similar hazard.
Handling Hack:
Food rewards should be carefully used in training so as not to teach the horse to nip or search for treats every time he is handled. I use carrots as a healthy treat whenever placing a halter on a horse or removing it. The carrot is easy to see and smell from the horse’s perspective and is unlikely to be dropped. For safety, if it does end up on the ground don’t reach down to get it, let the horse pick it up.
I give the thinner half of the carrot as a reward for dropping the head after the horse has patiently waited for me to buckle up the halter and clip on the rope, and the second half after the halter is safely removed.
The time it takes the horse to chow down on the carrot allows extra time for the handler to leave the paddock or stall safely and its size minimizes the risk of the horse finding my fingers instead of the treat if it is excited.
Bubbles and Backing Up
All horses should be taught to respect the ‘bubble’ or immediate space around their human handlers. A horse should also be trained to back up on command. The latter facilitates more control for all sorts of life events, such as trailering and transport, extricating a horse from a hazardous situation such as entanglement in a fence or gateway etc.
Backing up a horse is also used to instill in the horse who is in charge. Horses in a herd will back up away from the leader if challenged, and similarly the human handler can use backing up to teach the horse who is ‘the boss’ without ever needing to touch the horse.
Whenever a caregiver enters a stall, the resident equine should immediately turn to face them and then back away on a verbal cue to allow space for the handler to enter the stall.
Training Tips:
Use of a whip acts as an extension of the handler’s arm when training. Train the horse to be unafraid of the whip before beginning, by passing it along his shoulders and flanks. The additional distance from the horse that a whip provides offers more safety to the handler during the exercise.
As with all training cues keep them consistent and allow time for the horse to comply. Begin with a physical touch to the horse’s nose pushing it back toward its chest with the hand and tapping the point of the horse’s shoulder with the whip asking it to ‘step back.’ Reward compliance with a praise reward.
Rhythm is important in all horse training. Taps given in a predictable rhythm will relax the horse. If the horse overreacts then the impact of the tap was too much, if he does not react at all then the tap was not hard enough. Don’t be aggressive, be assertive.
Stop tapping and offer the praise reward immediately the horse positively responds, but don’t stop tapping until some effort in the right direction has been made.
Reward even the tiniest of movements or efforts from the horse in the right direction. Backing up is a hard task for a horse to accept as he cannot see directly behind him.
If the horse doesn’t immediately comply you can tap the near front hoof with your foot to tell it to move the hoof back.
Always stand to the side of the front of the horse, not directly in front when training unless you are an experienced professional.
Once the horse understands the instruction, you can migrate the cue to holding your hand up as a ‘stop’ sign while still using the verbal cue and moving your hand toward the horse as if pushing an invisible wall, or you can simply use your arm to point and direct the horse using it like a whip.
Tying and Cross Ties
There are many different methods utilized to teach the horse to stand tied up or on cross ties. Whichever method is chosen, it all begins with teaching the horse to stand still.
During a horse’s life it is inevitable that it will need to be restrained at some juncture by being tied up. Trailer transport, cross ties utilized for tacking up and grooming, standing tied to a trailer at a horse show etc.
Horses that pull back when tied can easily panic and injure themselves or others. It is important that the horse has been trained to step forward when pressure is applied to the halter rather than step back, before teaching the horse to tie up.
As with any other training of the horse it is the release of pressure that teaches the horse the best course of action, not its application.
Be aware that foals are particularly prone to damage to the cervical area of their spines (this is one of the reasons most horse breeders choose to use pressure from a rope behind the foal as well as a halter rope in front when teaching them to lead), so special care should be taken to train the foal. Tying up is one of the last things to teach a foal, and it should not be done until the horse is at least 6 months old and weaned.
Patience poles/snubbing posts are mostly used as a punishment, and I do not personally advocate their use.
Whatever method is employed, opt for ones that are kind, safe and offer a positive experience for the horse.
Remember to always stay out of the kick zone when training a horse to any task.
Take Home Message
Horses are amazing creatures. Their noble natures and smart intellects make them great partners in life. Keeping both horses and humans as happy and safe from injury and damage as possible is always the goal.
The horse’s amiable disposition allows it to trust its human counterpart, but this also exposes it to risk of abuse. Always honor the bond of trust and do everything to ensure it is built upon every day.
To quote one of my husband Paul’s (who is also a GP trainer/clinician/competitor) favorite expressions when teaching students to train their horses:
“Just Because You Live In The Sticks Doesn’t Mean Your Barn Has To Be Stick-Built.”
While the advent of Spring is the perfect time to get busy with plans laid dormant through winter months for a new horse barn the reality is any time of year is a good time to get busy with the new horse barn project.
The trouble is no matter what the season it is hard to find the time it takes to visit prospective barn builders, sit down to discuss all the upgrades and available options and gain a perspective on all the choices and price points out there for a brand-new beautiful horse barn. Horse owners are often juggling busy lives with multiple demands on their time and energy hitting them from all directions.
Add to the time management issue the cost of fuel to undertake the seemingly necessary drive time and make these trips, and the dream of the new barn may seem a long way away.
Thankfully, modern technology offers a viable alternative scenario where the prospective barn buyer can choose the perfect barn to fit their needs, wants, and budget from the comfort of their own home and on their own schedule.
Just because you live in the sticks, doesn’t mean you have to buy a stick-built barn with all the hidden costs, budget overruns and blind trust that the result of the spend of your hard-earned money will meet or exceed expectations.
The advent of 3D building technology offers the buyer a visual opportunity to enjoy a ‘real feel’ of the horse barn with 3D renderings that can be customized to suit any individual’s taste.
Utilizing 3D technology, buying decisions can be made in peace and quiet with opinions for all parties involved in the new barn project heard. Conflicts in time schedules for different family members or business partners to weigh in on the topic are negated, and the buying experience is fun and exciting. No more need for dreary drives with tired young children arguing in the back of the car or rushing home to feed the waiting horses or pets. No more need for missed rides or income earning lesson opportunities. No more need for barn buying decisions made blind with the only visualization of the final barn on paper or in the mind’s eye of one person.
Another useful tool that offers great insight into the ‘feel’ of a horse barn are virtual tours. Once you have taken a few virtual tours of different styles of barns, you may find yourself rethinking the design of barn you want. For example, a virtual horse barn tour of a high profile barn that is 36’ x 26’ may perfectly fit your present needs, but if you take a virtual tour of a low profile 36’ x 24’ barn you may find that for much less spend you would be very happy and a compromise could make the difference in buying now and having your horse home now. Especially as low profile barns can commonly be purchased straight off the sales lot and can be delivered right away, saving you livery expenses.
Yes, everyone is aware that construction company websites commonly offer a myriad of photo galleys and embedded video promotions of their business profile and building upgrade features. Keen resources exist online to answer general questions on barn building experiences and offer suggestions. Great options and a grand place to start.
However, if the ultimate choice of a new barn is to meet both their demands in functionality and aesthetic appeal prospective buyers truly need to do a ‘walk-through’ of barn designs and explore a wide world of barn styles, upgrade features, colors and construction methods such as timber frame versus modular.
Thus, in addition to the armchair planning options of sometimes mundane websites and social media promotions, it is wise for the prospective barn purchaser to seek additional methods of ascertaining just what they are buying and how the structure will work for daily use.
Spatial awareness is a huge part of architectural design. How a building is engineered, how it looks up-close, and how different structures will transform the atmosphere in a particular site or environment need not be left to chance.
Details of barn construction are easy to overlook if you are not experienced in the variety of engineering and carpentry applications are available. When you enjoy a virtual tour, you can see what makes one barn construction method different to the next. For example, you may not know what a timber frame barn looks like and what makes it so special, aside from hearing tell of traditional mortise and tenon joinery and how it is the strongest form of joinery carpenters use, even in this modern world. A quick tour of a timber frame barn will show you how the beams look. You will see almost first-hand how aesthetically pleasing the timber frame option actually is, and if you are trying to be sensitive to the historical charter of the property you own the timber frame will certainly fit right in.
Visualization of what the new barn will look like is an important part of the buying equation. It creates confidence in the ultimate decision making and allows flexibility in budget by addressing optional upgrades and changes in size and style without the expense of a ‘work order’ and changes on site.
Buyers should seek a construction company that encompasses a large variety of barn style and feature choices, siding and roofing options plus can deliver on the smaller details such as copper weathervanes and European stall fronts and any other facets of individualization that will make the barn unique. The 3D technology should offer measurements, good quality video resolution, and be easy to navigate and the Project Team Manager at the company should be fluent in making all adjustments to the program to accurately showcase changes and requests of the buyer.
The opportunity to save the drive and use 3D building technology to ‘build the barn’ from layout to loft heights, siding to stall size, color to cupolas and everything in-between is not to be missed. It is a great way to take control of the new barn building project and eliminate any unhappy surprises.
Guilty as charged! As a veteran horse owner, I am guilty of being a hoarder of equine tack and paraphernalia, inside the house and inside the barn and even the horse trailer dressing room has invited a permanent storage solution at times.
Just as handbags, jackets and shoes seem to have a magical attraction to many of us gals when shopping, saddle pads, bits, bridles, blankets and breeches also seem to inexplicably find their way home.
I confess that as a lifetime horse crazed person the accumulation of a ‘bit of a boneyard’ when it comes to everything equine-related may have occurred. If you have ever moved ‘farm’ you will likely have realized a similar situation.
Luckily, my hubbie is also an equestrian so the piles of neatly stacked saddle pads hidden in closets, drawers full of bits and spurs and cupboards full of every imaginable color of polo wraps goes for the most part anyway, without comment or complaint.
That ‘extra stall’ in the barn is commonly abused in use as a storage resource that was always planned to be temporary but inevitably becomes a permanent home for a litany of tools and equipment. Stuff that can be placed safely behind a bolted door beyond the reach of inquiring equine noses and pets’ investigations.
Horse stuff isn’t limited to locations in the tack room/office or barn aisleway either, our house is adorned with horse brasses, books and equestrian art, expressive horse themed rugs and even a hunting horn decorates the wall of the mud room. Brasses that require regular time-consuming polishing I might add. But I wouldn’t have it any other way.
As the renowned American interior designer Bunnie Williams would advise, your house should reflect your interests and passions. No problem there where most of us horse loving folks are concerned.
But in interior design and antique collection, there is another edict:
“Curate don’t collate”.
Good thinking. Following along with the interior design theme, to quote the then radical creative 19th Century anti-maximalist William Morris:
The same could be said of the horses’ house.
Stacks of old hay could be sold to a local cow or pig farmer; unused tack trunks and collapsible saddle racks could be removed; aged health care products could be discarded; and more than likely equine tack and equestrian apparel supplies will yield a horde of horsey stuff for sale.
Spring cleaning the barn is a great opportunity to take a hard look at the hoarding habit. Make the decision to stop wasting time all season long sorting through masses of old ‘just in case I get a new horse’ paraphernalia, cleaning leather tack that you will likely never use again and turn unused ‘stuff’ into hard cash that could be productively used for further horsey pursuits.
Proceeds from the sale of ‘stuff’ could fund the fees for a show or clinic event, pay for your daily use saddle to be restuffed or refitted to properly fit your horse or even buy a new run-in shed.
Here are some thoughts to help inspire your barn and stable cleaning and a few hacks to help the process along:
Don’t Clean Old Tack Before Selling
It goes against every rule of horsemanship to leave tack dirty. Weird as it might seem, buyers often prefer to ‘recover’ items to their previously pristine condition rather than purchase them looking ‘as new.’ Antique buyers are commonly similarly afflicted with the notion that they have made a ‘find’ if the object of their attention is in ‘weathered’ condition.
Regarding equestrian clothing, you would expect that unwashed clothes, stained shirts or bleach marked breeches would be unloved. In the ‘second-hand’ market of recycling, the usual marketing techniques for presentation simply don’t seem to apply. All manner of wrinkled, unkempt apparel items appear across Facebook Marketplace and similar venues and sell well.
For some of us the notion of presenting any uncleaned item or one in poor condition is understandably abhorrent. The best rule is to consider where the item is being marketed and the target audience of the product.
The Perfect Price
There is no such thing as the perfect price. You will know if the price is right however, because the product will sell. The dynamics of the free marketplace do not lie.
Many of us become emotionally attached to a late horse’s bridle or equipment, or a horsey gift that a beloved relative bestowed upon us. This often translates into asking an unrealistic price for the object. Options such as donating rather than selling the item can make us feel better and even taking a photo to remember the item can help alleviate the angst we feel at parting with it.
The reality is, that Arts and Crafts designer Morris’ advice holds true throughout our curation of horse tack, tools and equine and equestrian apparel.
A great example is the saddle pad collection. Over time technology has changed the saddle pad from a simple piece of cloth designed to keep the underside of the saddle clean to fabrics with special features such as anti-sweat, compression and shock resistant components and a myriad of other improvements. Through increased attention and knowledge of equine anatomy and saddle fit for both horse and rider, the design and purpose of the saddle pad has evolved.
While natural sheepskin and other ‘older’ favorites such as 100% cotton, may still be preferred by the die-hard traditionalists, and bright colors and bling be dismissed from the wardrobe of the more reserved horse person, the likelihood is that many of the saddle pads stashed in the stable yard go unused and are unlikely to feel the warmth of your horse’s back again.
Remember, the perfect price is the one that someone will pay for the item.
Expect to discount the price especially if the item does not sell quickly. Just as retailers offer markdowns as time progresses and the products sit unsold, it is smart to discount the pricing to save your valuable time and effort relisting.
Curating the stack of saddle pads into those you really use and selling off those that you don’t is more than a good fiscal idea. A good clean out is good for the brain.
The less ‘stuff’ you have impeding your visual cortex the more organized you will feel. This does not mean it’s a grand idea to just ‘stuff the stuff’ away in a cupboard. You know it’s there and its presence makes finding something you need more time consuming.
Humans feel more rested and more in harmony with their surroundings when the environment is clean and organized. I’m not sure what our horses think on the stable cleaning subject but I do know that when we are happier so are they.
Don’t Get Taken For A Ride
Scammers and con artists abound. Use common sense when marketing your horsey stuff for sale. If an offer sounds too good to be true it probably is and it is essential you do your due diligence and are aware of the common scams that are present, especially online.
Wildlife management in and around the horse barn is easier to address than might be thought at first glance. Horse housing offers a safe haven for snakes and skunks, squirrels and mice, birds and bats, bees and bears, possums and porcupines, chipmunks, and woodchucks, plus rats, rabbits and raccoons and many other wildlife families. All are happy to share life at the barn with Equidae.
Horse barns offer wildlife shelter from adverse weather and predators, and often provide a handy source of food and water. Limit the attractions available and you can limit the amount of wildlife cohabiting with the horse.
It is prudent to keep horses and wildlife apart as the latter can transmit diseases such as Rabies, West Nile Disease and Potomac Horse Fever to equines.
Remember it is much easier to prevent wildlife from taking up residence in the barn in the first place, than having to remove its presence once it has set up house.
If in any doubt as to how to safely handle the removal of a species from the environment, always consult a pest control professional. Certain species are protected by law from eradication and require special needs for rehabilitating and re-homing.
Number 1 Attraction ~ Food
It comes as no big surprise that dropped grain from feed buckets, poorly stored grain supplies and stacks of soft 2nd cut hay offer fine dining delights to a myriad of critters.
Animals big and small can pose a hazard to horses not only through their ability to spread disease. Wildlife visitors can also wreak havoc chewing through wood and metal and digging channels under barn walls and stall floors. From black bears coming out of hibernation to rascally rabbits setting up house in the haystack, the best way to manage the wildlife is by to avoid provision of an available food source for their enjoyment.
In the case of hay storage it is always difficult to limit access to a haystack, especially if hay is stored in a loft space above the stables. If hay is stacked in a stall and the floor is either concrete or compacted stonedust with mats, keeping the stall door closed will help mitigate unwanted visitors. If possible, store your hay supplies a distance away from the horse barn.
To help deter discovery grain storage should be in heavy gauge metal or plastic with sealable (even lockable) lid or cover. Keeping the barn doors closed at night may be necessary to help defray the number of nighttime wildlife visitors. Especially during Spring when critters are looking for places to nest or catch up on their food needs after a long winter sleep.
The food chain is a necessary component for all life. It is wise to remember that food sources are not just grain and hay in the horse barn. For example, a rodent infestation provides and attractive meal for snakes. You may start off with a minor mouse problem and end up with snakes nesting in the neighborhood.
Don’t forget that garbage left in the barn also invites investigation and consumption by wildlife. Keep the barn free of open garbage containers and don’t leave sugary soda cans/beverages and food leftovers in the barn.
Another food source around the barn is manure. Manure can not only provide a meal treat for wildlife in and around the barn, when piled up it can also be utilized as a living space. The warmth that emanates from within a manure pile make it a particularly attractive abode for snakes and other reptilian species in addition to amphibians.
Manure and compost piles can also attract the attention of mammals such as bears, rats, raccoons, skunks and opossums. It is wise to site manure and compost piles away from the barn for these reasons as well as the possibility a manure/compost pile may catch fire.
Manure spreaders are a good option for recycling this nutritional resource but take care not to spread manure on grazing pastures that are actively being utilized. Manure and pasture management are an important facet of horse keeping.
Number 2 ~ Water
The best way to encourage snakes to visit or mice to inadvertently fall into a water bucket is to set the bucket on the ground. Most barns will hang buckets on the wall at a height suitable for the resident Equus to drink, but this is not ideal for the purposes of deterring wildlife from sharing the water supply.
Birds can perch on the rim of the bucket to drink and if bird nests are built in the barn chicks may even fall into the buckets when learning to fly or if pushed out of the nest.
Automatic watering systems are the preferred way to water horses from the standpoint of prevention of other wildlife ingesting water from the same source.
Cleaning up puddles and spills can also eliminate a handy water supply for wildlife
Provide the Predator
Cats and dogs can be mousers and ratters and can effectively deter and catch a bounty of vermin and other wildlife in and around the barn including snakes. However, it is important to also consider that vermin can transmit diseases to cats and dogs.
Re-homing a cat from a rescue as a farm cat can be an efficient way to keep down the vermin and snake population. Dogs such as terriers and hounds can hunt down their fair share of wildlife fare too.
Be especially diligent about how you manage any other methods of wildlife deterrents if you have a resident ‘predator’ in the barn. Mouse/rat traps or mothballs (these are poisonous) placed in cubbies or small spaces around the barn in an attempt to manage wildlife should not be used around cats and dogs. These products can also pose a hazard to children.
Smart Horse Barn Design and Select Siting Can Help
Horse barn design smarts measure highly in the fight to mitigate the number of myriad migrant wildlife invaders that can spread disease and cause damage at an equine abode.
Here are some useful ideas to consider in your barn building plans (some of which can be added after the horse barn is erected if overlooked at time of construction) that will help deter wildlife:
Doors should be installed to the ground surface without gaps beneath. This will help deter possums, rabbits and rodents from entering the barn.
The barn site should be compacted both beneath and around the barn apron area with effective covered drainage methods installed to mitigate standing water and provide a hard surface that will deter digging critters such as woodchucks.
Site the barn away from standing water such as ponds that will provide a natural attraction to wildlife.
Flashing or netting around the perimeter of the structure that is buried to 1” below the ground surface can negate animal intruders under the building.
Site the barn away from foliage such as tree cover and bushes that will harbor wildlife and/or provide an entry way to roofs and soffits. Flying squirrels, chipmunks and raccoons like nothing better than jumping off a bough to a roof.
Wire mesh or net all soffits, gable vents, roof ridge vents to help defray birds and bats from gaining access to the barn.
Screen all windows and doors to protect the interior of the building from flying insects. Mosquitoes, pesky flies, biting bugs and stinging insects like bees, wasps and hornets can easily be kept at bay with the inexpensive provision of screens.
Deter nesting by birds by eliminating any high flat surface. For example, the top surface of a 6”x 6”post is the perfect setting for a swallow nest. The simple addition of a piece of tent shaped or angled wood secured to the top of the post can provide a permanent solution to deter birdlife from nesting.
Be Vigilant
Don’t doze on the job when it comes to tracking and managing wildlife activity in your horse barn. It is much easier to manage wildlife invaders if you take action the minute you see evidence of intrusion.
Be sure to research non-poisonous options for wildlife management. There are many wildlife management options available and some work better than others. A bevy of online suggestions are available with novel ideas. Some examples include spreading sulphur around the perimeter of a barn to deter snakes and placement of dried potato flakes in piles to attract mice to ingest the dry product that may then die when they cannot locate water.
There are many ‘villainous’ methods of wildlife control. Remember that poisoned critters that go off to die in a barn wall or under a stall or tack room floor can pose a health hazard to horse, human and even to other animals that may ingest them. At best their decay can provide awful aromas for long periods of time.
Good barn management practices such as keeping the barn clean and tidy by sweeping or vacuuming aisles and feed rooms, prompt pick up of spillage of food and water sources and regular emptying of garbage containers can all help keep wildlife away.
Wildlife presence in the horse barn can be effectively managed in a myriad of ways. Don’t be shy to reach out for professional help from your local Dept. Of Agriculture Extension personnel or pest control service.
Photo Credit 
Photo Credit 
