Horse barns offer wildlife shelter from adverse weather and predators, and often provide a handy source of food and water. Limit the attractions available and you can limit the amount of wildlife cohabiting with the horse.

It is prudent to keep horses and wildlife apart as the latter can transmit diseases such as Rabies, West Nile Disease and Potomac Horse Fever to equines.

Remember it is much easier to prevent wildlife from taking up residence in the barn in the first place, than having to remove its presence once it has set up house.

If in any doubt as to how to safely handle the removal of a species from the environment, always consult a pest control professional. Certain species are protected by law from eradication and require special needs for rehabilitating and re-homing.

Number 1 Attraction ~ Food

It comes as no big surprise that dropped grain from feed buckets, poorly stored grain supplies and stacks of soft 2^nd cut hay offer fine dining delights to a myriad of critters.

Animals big and small can pose a hazard to horses not only through their ability to spread disease. Wildlife visitors can also wreak havoc chewing through wood and metal and digging channels under barn walls and stall floors. From black bears coming out of hibernation to rascally rabbits setting up house in the haystack, the best way to manage the wildlife is by to avoid provision of an available food source for their enjoyment.

In the case of hay storage it is always difficult to limit access to a haystack, especially if hay is stored in a loft space above the stables. If hay is stacked in a stall and the floor is either concrete or compacted stonedust with mats, keeping the stall door closed will help mitigate unwanted visitors. If possible, store your hay supplies a distance away from the horse barn.

To help deter discovery grain storage should be in heavy gauge metal or plastic with sealable (even lockable) lid or cover. Keeping the barn doors closed at night may be necessary to help defray the number of nighttime wildlife visitors. Especially during Spring when critters are looking for places to nest or catch up on their food needs after a long winter sleep.

Photo Credit www.stablestyle.net

The food chain is a necessary component for all life. It is wise to remember that food sources are not just grain and hay in the horse barn. For example, a rodent infestation provides and attractive meal for snakes. You may start off with a minor mouse problem and end up with snakes nesting in the neighborhood.

Don’t forget that garbage left in the barn also invites investigation and consumption by wildlife. Keep the barn free of open garbage containers and don’t leave sugary soda cans/beverages and food leftovers in the barn.

Another food source around the barn is manure. Manure can not only provide a meal treat for wildlife in and around the barn, when piled up it can also be utilized as a living space. The warmth that emanates from within a manure pile make it a particularly attractive abode for snakes and other reptilian species in addition to amphibians.

Manure and compost piles can also attract the attention of mammals such as bears, rats, raccoons, skunks and opossums. It is wise to site manure and compost piles away from the barn for these reasons as well as the possibility a manure/compost pile may catch fire.

Manure spreaders are a good option for recycling this nutritional resource but take care not to spread manure on grazing pastures that are actively being utilized. Manure and pasture management are an important facet of horse keeping.

Number 2 ~ Water

The best way to encourage snakes to visit or mice to inadvertently fall into a water bucket is to set the bucket on the ground. Most barns will hang buckets on the wall at a height suitable for the resident Equus to drink, but this is not ideal for the purposes of deterring wildlife from sharing the water supply.

Birds can perch on the rim of the bucket to drink and if bird nests are built in the barn chicks may even fall into the buckets when learning to fly or if pushed out of the nest.

Photo Credit www.nelsonmfg.com

Automatic watering systems are the preferred way to water horses from the standpoint of prevention of other wildlife ingesting water from the same source.

Cleaning up puddles and spills can also eliminate a handy water supply for wildlife

Provide the Predator

Cats and dogs can be mousers and ratters and can effectively deter and catch a bounty of vermin and other wildlife in and around the barn including snakes. However, it is important to also consider that vermin can transmit diseases to cats and dogs.

Re-homing a cat from a rescue as a farm cat can be an efficient way to keep down the vermin and snake population. Dogs such as terriers and hounds can hunt down their fair share of wildlife fare too.

Be especially diligent about how you manage any other methods of wildlife deterrents if you have a resident ‘predator’ in the barn. Mouse/rat traps or mothballs (these are poisonous) placed in cubbies or small spaces around the barn in an attempt to manage wildlife should not be used around cats and dogs. These products can also pose a hazard to children.

Smart Horse Barn Design and Select Siting Can Help

Horse barn design smarts measure highly in the fight to mitigate the number of myriad migrant wildlife invaders that can spread disease and cause damage at an equine abode.

Here are some useful ideas to consider in your barn building plans (some of which can be added after the horse barn is erected if overlooked at time of construction) that will help deter wildlife:

• Doors should be installed to the ground surface without gaps beneath. This will help deter possums, rabbits and rodents from entering the barn.
• The barn site should be compacted both beneath and around the barn apron area with effective covered drainage methods installed to mitigate standing water and provide a hard surface that will deter digging critters such as woodchucks.
• Site the barn away from standing water such as ponds that will provide a natural attraction to wildlife.
• Flashing or netting around the perimeter of the structure that is buried to 1” below the ground surface can negate animal intruders under the building.
• Site the barn away from foliage such as tree cover and bushes that will harbor wildlife and/or provide an entry way to roofs and soffits. Flying squirrels, chipmunks and raccoons like nothing better than jumping off a bough to a roof.
• Wire mesh or net all soffits, gable vents, roof ridge vents to help defray birds and bats from gaining access to the barn.
• Screen all windows and doors to protect the interior of the building from flying insects. Mosquitoes, pesky flies, biting bugs and stinging insects like bees, wasps and hornets can easily be kept at bay with the inexpensive provision of screens.
• Deter nesting by birds by eliminating any high flat surface. For example, the top surface of a 6”x 6”post is the perfect setting for a swallow nest. The simple addition of a piece of tent shaped or angled wood secured to the top of the post can provide a permanent solution to deter birdlife from nesting.

Be Vigilant 

Don’t doze on the job when it comes to tracking and managing wildlife activity in your horse barn. It is much easier to manage wildlife invaders if you take action the minute you see evidence of intrusion.

Be sure to research non-poisonous options for wildlife management. There are many wildlife management options available and some work better than others. A bevy of online suggestions are available with novel ideas. Some examples include spreading sulphur around the perimeter of a barn to deter snakes and placement of dried potato flakes in piles to attract mice to ingest the dry product that may then die when they cannot locate water.

There are many ‘villainous’ methods of wildlife control. Remember that poisoned critters that go off to die in a barn wall or under a stall or tack room floor can pose a health hazard to horse, human and even to other animals that may ingest them. At best their decay can provide awful aromas for long periods of time.

Good barn management practices such as keeping the barn clean and tidy by sweeping or vacuuming aisles and feed rooms, prompt pick up of spillage of food and water sources and regular emptying of garbage containers can all help keep wildlife away.

Wildlife presence in the horse barn can be effectively managed in a myriad of ways. Don’t be shy to reach out for professional help from your local Dept. Of Agriculture Extension personnel or pest control service.

Not only can dogs be uncomfortable in excessively warm temperatures, but they can also suffer from heatstroke, which can be deadly. It’s very important to make sure that you’re taking the necessary steps to protect your dog in warm weather.

When is Warm Weather Climate Control Most Important?

All dogs need temperature control. Any dog can overheat in excessively hot weather. However, there are some cases in which it is even more important for you to be sure that kennels are sufficiently cool:

Brachycephalic Dogs

Brachycephalic dogs have short muzzles that can make it more difficult for them to pant and effectively cool themselves off. They have a narrower trachea, which could make it difficult for them to breathe, especially when they are trying to pant to cool off.

Examples of brachycephalic breeds include Bulldogs, Boxers, Boston Terriers, and Shih Tzus. Mixed breed dogs can also inherit the shortened snout from one or both parents. If you have brachycephalic dogs, it is essential to be aware of the ease with which they can overheat and prevent them from having to struggle with very warm temperatures.

Pregnant and Nursing Mothers and Puppies

Dogs who are pregnant or nursing and young puppies can all be more susceptible to hot weather. Pregnant dogs may be less able to regulate their own body temperature and tend to feel hotter.

Nursing mothers are constantly losing hydration through milk, which can make it harder for them to make up for the water they lose while panting by drinking water. Very young puppies have difficulty managing their own temperature and may not know to get out of sunshine. Mothers and puppies should be protected from the heat and should probably not be kept in a kennel with an open run in hot weather.

Older Dogs

As dogs get older, they may not be able to regulate their body temperature as well. Dogs can suffer from a form of dementia that is not unlike human dementia.

Older dogs that are suffering from this condition may stay in the sunshine even as they overheat. If you have older dogs kenneled, it’s important to observe their behavior and ensure that they are making good decisions about cooling themselves off.

Warm Weather Tips for Your Kennel

Always Make Sure There’s Plenty of Water

Most dogs can do a pretty good job of keeping themselves from overheating assuming the conditions aren’t too hot and they have plenty of water. However, a knocked-over water bowl can become a serious situation very quickly.

An automatic water bowl can be a good way to make sure that there’s always a supply of fresh water. However, you’ll still need to regularly check to make sure nothing has gone wrong and to clean the basin.

Whether you have an automatic water bowl or not, you need a bowl that is held firmly in place with a welded metal frame and a metal spring. You don’t want to take any chances with the bowl being tipped over on a hot day.

Provide Shade

While dogs likely enjoy a bit of sunshine in the cool winter months, in the summer they’ll want to get away from the heat of the sun. If the sun is shining directly into the outer part of the kennel, dogs may feel torn between wanting to get away from the heat into the inner part of the kennel and wanting to stay outside to catch interesting smells and see what’s going on.

You don’t want to put your dog in the position of having to decide whether they want to be cool and bored or hot and engaged. Make sure that there is sufficient shade in the outer part of the kennel throughout the day.

Enable Air Circulation

If you choose not to have an air conditioner in your kennel, you will want to make sure that there is plenty of air circulation in the inner part of the kennel. Windows in the inner portion allow air to circulate freely throughout the building and in and out of each individual kennel.

Good air flow can carry away body heat and ensure that continuous fresh air is being brought to dogs. Fans are also very helpful in encouraging good air circulation.

Install Air Conditioners or Fans

In very hot climates, an air conditioner can make all the difference in the world by providing sufficient cool temperatures to your kennels. In more temperate climates, fans may be sufficient.

Where your kennel is located is also an important element in deciding whether you need an air conditioner or whether fans are good enough. A kennel housed under tree cover in a cool area of the yard may not get nearly as hot as a kennel in direct sunlight, even in the same climate.

As a rule of thumb, if you are cool enough with just a fan, your dog likely will be as well. However, if you are uncomfortably hot and sweating with a fan, your dog would probably appreciate an air conditioner.

At Horizon Structures, we are happy to install air conditioners directly into the kennel. You can choose between a 5000 and 10000 BTU air conditioning unit.

If you choose to have air conditioning in your dog kennel, be sure that you choose well-insulated dog doors so that the cold air doesn’t shoot out into the kennel. Dogs can easily be trained to use their dog door by tossing a few treats and showing dogs how to push the door open and closed as they need.

Fans can be installed overhead or mounted on walls. Just be certain that wherever the fan is mounted, dogs won’t be able to chew on it or end up sticking a tail or paw through the grate into an active fan.

Consider an Optional Water Feature

Some dogs love to cool off by getting wet. There are a number of things you can do to provide them with the opportunity for water fun. You can purchase a doggie fountain that your dog can step on to send a stream of water into the air. This can be a great way to cool off and also a secondary source of drinking water. Another option is to put a small pool into the outside portion of the kennel so that dogs can lie in it if they like.

A water feature is another thing that you will need to maintain, so it may not be a good option for the entire summer, but it can be a fun source of enrichment as well as a way to cool off on the hottest days. If you provide a water feature, make sure to put it in a shaded portion of the kennel so that it stays cool.

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Make Dog Popsicles

One great way to cool your dog down in the hot weather and provide some valuable enrichment during their kennel time is to make dog popsicles. These can be made of just about anything that your dog likes to eat.

Many dogs enjoy just munching on ice cubes or licking large blocks of ice. However, you can make it a lot more fun by freezing pieces of fruit like apples or strawberries into the ice. Freezing chicken broth is also a great way to give your dog a delicious treat and also some healthy protein. Greek yogurt is another good ingredient to add to dog popsicles.

Just see what your dog enjoys and experiment with different sizes and recipes for popsicles until you find what works well for you and your dog.

Take Steps to Avoid Pests

Temperature isn’t the only thing to keep in mind when it comes to warm weather. Pests also tend to become much more prevalent in the warmer months. Be sure that your dog is up-to-date on heartworm and flea prevention.

Keep grass and shrubbery that goes up to the edge of the kennel trimmed short to prevent pests from accumulating there. Make sure that only as much food as your dog needs is left in the kennel at any time, as a bowl of uneaten food can attract pests like cockroaches.

Keep Your Dog Safe and Comfortable in Their Kennel in the Hot Weather

Your dog can be very comfortable in their kennel even as temperatures skyrocket, provided you take steps to protect them from the heat. Make sure that your dog has access to cooler temperatures using either fans or air conditioner units.

Be sure that there is plenty of shade in the outside portion of the kennel and good air circulation in the inside portion. Extras like a water fountain or pool to play in and doggy popsicles can also be very helpful to make the warm weather enjoyable for your dog.

When it comes to making a choice between a pavilion, pergola or gazebo, the amazing variety of options makes it a truly mind-boggling decision. You can choose to party hearty with an elaborate pavilion that offers flexibility in the size of the gathering and a solid ‘ceiling’ of protection from adverse weather; opt for a garden destination retreat that offers privacy from the prying eyes of neighbors with a graceful gazebo that reflects the peace and quiet of a bygone era; or channel your inner gardener and lounge in a scented wisteria or honeysuckle vined pergola.

Boundless options come with the pergola and pavilion, as size and height can be adjusted to match a roof eave to truly extend indoor/outdoor living, or simply stand alone in a solitary setting to provide an architectural focal point. The gazebo necessarily provides more privacy and the ultimate in shelter from wind, rain showers and glaring sun.

If you prefer a quieter lifestyle and would enjoy a spot to gaze at your garden, converse away from others or seek a spot to retreat to reflect on the day, then the gazebo might be your best choice. The space can easily be screened to remedy any pesky buzzing insects from upsetting your tranquil environment, and it can also be large enough to enclose the perfect dining location.

Size does matter when it comes to seating and set up of a dining space. Ideally any side of the dining table selected would be 36 inches from the side of the structure to allow for people to get up and down from the table and for folks to pass behind them to serve or pass by. Seating wise the rectangular table offers the most seating space, so if choosing a gazebo as a dining location consider how a rectangular shape will fit into the design. Figure that family seating might be comfortable at 20-24 inches apart but for formal occasions a large distance might be better. Oval tables, round tables and the most limited, square tables, are also dining space options.

Obviously with a pergola or pavilion the lack of exterior walls is blessing when it comes to sizing the seating arrangements. But it is prudent to allow enough floor space of the same floor covering that is laid under the structure to surround the table for 36 inches or more all around, to mitigate the likelihood of people tripping up or taking a bad step and falling when coming and going to the space.

While gazebos can be purchased with or without floors, (the latter requiring a 4” concrete pad be poured as a base rather than the usual simple compaction of a gravel surface that is level), the pergola or pavilion will require some sort of stone, gravel, tile, concrete other surface be laid in the interior space, rather than left as grass which will quickly become dusty at best and muddy at worst during high traffic use.

All 3 structures can be purchased as kits and assembled by a handy do-it-yourselfer or bought as kits and delivered and assembled by the manufacturer’s crew. Be careful of companies that employ 3^rd parties for delivery and assembly as they may not be experienced and familiar enough with the product to do a good job of construction on site.

Smaller gazebos offer the opportunity to be shipped assembled and trucked over the road. Utilizing a company that offers its own nationwide delivery and assembly option is a great idea.

You may love to host large family and friend gatherings. Your lifestyle may include a love of cooking and an outdoor kitchen and dining space may be your dream outside living space. The addition of BBQ’s, full outdoor kitchens, hot tubs, swing sets, are all possibilities when you construct a pavilion structure. You can add shade/sun curtains and blinds for the sides, or even metal shutters to secure the space from inclement weather when not in use.

The flexibility of a pavilion means there is shelter from rain showers and the heat of the sun from above, and the area can be set up in advance with buffet style or formal dining that can accommodate larger numbers and variant numbers of people. This makes a pavilion the perfect choice for hosting family events such as weddings, graduations, birthdays and wedding anniversaries as well as holiday get togethers with neighbors and friends.

The Money Factor

The main factor in the decision of which of the 3 options to choose is the matter of cost. As you might expect, in general terms the most budget friendly is the simplest to build, the pergola. Followed by the gazebo with the pavilion option generally being the most expensive. However, there are so many options to choose from in size, style and materials (traditional wood or maintenance free vinyl, shingle or metal roofs) plus add-ons such as cupolas and weathervanes, it is easy to manipulate the price point between the three options to favor the individual’s budget.

A major consideration in the decision-making process should be the planned use of the structure. Remember to consider both your present and possible future lifestyle needs and preferences when making your selection.

Here is a quick look at the pros and cons of each structure:

Gazebo Pros 

• Reasonably budget friendly (when ordered with floor minimal site preparation required)
• Portable (especially useful for varietal placement within a competition jumping area)
• Aesthetic appeal of traditional design
• Full shade and shelter from rain
• Can be screened to provide bug-free environment
• Offers privacy
• Less distraction to horses from the movements from occupants
• Optimal 360-degree view
• Enclosed space secures safe space for children and pets

Gazebo Cons

• Size restriction of the enclosed space limits size of gatherings
• Permanent concrete pad required if ordered without floor
• Hard to keep clean of dust and dirt
• Site must be level and well drained

Pergola Pros

• Cost effective
• Myriad of options regarding size and shape
• Can be built adjacent to existing structures for ease of access
• Offers benefit of ‘green’ living with climbing vines and scented plants
• Can be easily combined with pavilion to extend covered space
• Easy to keep clean
• Minimal site preparation needed

Pergola Cons

• Offers some shade but no protection from rain
• Limited options on roof style
• EZ Shade or some other blind or shade curtain may be needed to defray sun glare on sides
• No protection from pesky bugs – may encourage nesting of wasps/hornets or other unwanted visitors
• No protection from wind
• Must be permanently sited
• Lack of privacy

Pavilion Pros

• Large choice of styles, sizes and roof shapes available
• Superior protection from rain and sun, but not from wind.
• Easy to add cooking fixtures/TVs/hot tubs under cover and easy to clean
• Sides can be sealed with overhead style doors for all season weather protection and security of contents
• Supports multiple size gatherings and pergolas can easily be added to each side for more space
• Effective extension of living space when placed adjacent to existing building’s entry points

Pavilion Cons

• Requires permanent siting
• May require shades or blinds to protect interior from sun glare or driving rain
• No protection from flying bugs or nesting insects
• Generally considered a more expensive option than its counterparts
• Requires careful choice of location in areas where high winds are common and/or additional engineered securing of rafters/roof to supporting members.
• Lack of privacy

Ask A Professional

There are so many variables in the world of outdoor living structures that affect the price. It is wise to resource a professional company that offers a complete selection of all types of structures in a myriad of materials. Don’t be tempted to just buy something you see down the road. It pays dividends to explore all your options and if buying multiple structures a discount is often available.

Here are some of the important factors that Horizon Structures offers:

• High quality builds that utilize first class materials and offer a huge variety of options
• Clear ‘to the penny‘ written quote (not estimate), that includes set up (if not a kit) and delivery
• Clearly written, easy to understand contracts with reasonable deposit requirements
• A specific timeline for delivery
• Informative website that is interactive and quickly provides options
• Friendly customer service that addresses your concerns and offers solutions
• No 3^rd party delivery services/set up. Work with a professional entity that has ‘hands-on’ product knowledge and will both deliver and assemble on site.
• 5 year manufacturer’s warranty
• Good references and unedited/tamed reviews
• Financing options

Remember it is not always the cheapest initial price you find that should dictate the decision-making process. A good quality product that is properly installed will offer better longevity, lower maintenance expenses and more enjoyment than a poorly constructed or conceived structure.

Are the plans for your new horse barn the magnificent creation you envisioned? Did you choose to dress up the interior design of your horse barn with a hard look at hardware options for stall fronts, stable doors and dividers?

Design is about more than creating curved lines and inviting aisleways in light and airy barns. The choice of materials and their construction must be carefully weighed against budget constraints and safety issues and the ergonomics of the space must be front and center in the decision making process.

For example, selection of the right gauge high quality cold rolled steel provides the best option for both safety (due to its innate strength) and clean finish when paint or powder applications are added. The downside is its expense.

The longevity of the beautiful initial appearance should be considered when choosing the materials to be incorporated into the building. Metals should be powder coated/galvanized or otherwise protected from rust. There are choices of pre-galvanized or hot-dip galvanizing methods, powder coating and paint. Know the difference and know what you are buying.

While standard features such as grilled sliding stall doors and kick-boarded walls may come without upgrade fees, the addition of some personal design touches can make your new horse barn a true reflection of your taste and give it a unique feel.

It is a fallacy that modular and prefabricated horse barn manufacturers don’t offer all the high-end style stall fronts, metal work and full customization options that on site construction companies may offer.

Leading modular construction companies encompass a litany of customization options in hardware design and the purchaser can still enjoy the sincere advantage of a ‘to the penny’ quoted bottom line that includes both delivery and set up on a pre-ordained timeline.

In reality the majority of clientele of leading modular horse barn producers opt in for customization of some sort. Metalwork and hardware are key components when it comes to creation of a visually appealing and highly functional horse barn.

While functional and simple designs offer a ‘plain Jane’ option that is affordable, the addition of customization features can truly make the barn unique. Colors, curves and design styles that mix wood and metal can all be blended to create a special feel that individualizes the horse barn.

More Than Just A Pretty Face

Savvy shopping for horse stalls and their design requires diligent research. Stall walls and all barn doors both interior and exterior, take a lot of punishment over the years. For safety’s sake be careful that the materials and construction methods chosen for any aspect of barn building are up to the task, including the weakest points such as latches, hinges and rails.

It is also prudent to look for seamless welds including on all connection points on crosshatch and grilled framework. It is essential that wherever metal is welded together it is compatible. For example, spot welding an aluminum mesh grill or crosshatch sheet to an iron frame on a door will easily break at the weld points if a horse lands a kick on its surface. Such accidents can cause severe injury to the horse.

Stall doors in particular are prone to damage and need to do more than just present a pretty face or façade to the horse barn. Certain styles of mesh and metal materials are not suited to the abuse a 1500 pound animal can bestow upon them.

Mesh, grill or crosshatch gates designed for goats and sheep might suffice as a visual barrier but may not be of a low enough gauge metal or good enough construction method to stand up to an errant kick from a horse as noted above. Styles such as low cut front stall walls may invite equine occupants to lean, rear up over the top of attempt to jump out of the stall.

The bars on all grillwork should be safely distanced to eliminate the possibility of hooves being caught between the space and horses’ not being able to bite or nip each other through the bars. Injuries may otherwise occur such as one horse biting another horse’s tongue or a foal’s tiny hooves becoming hung between bars.

Industry standard is for bars to placed 3” on-center. This allows for a 2 ¼” gap between bars for ¾-inch grills, and 2” gap between bars for 1” grills.

Here are some custom features to consider when designing your new horse barn:

Freestanding Stalls

The self-supporting nature of a freestanding stall makes the design perfect for large width span buildings with multiple aisles or corner stalls at the ends of stall lines.

Many stall designs require the support of the posts and pillars that provide the integral strength to the framework of the building as these components offer substantial capacity to withstand undue force and bear the weight of the doors and walls.

Semi-freestanding stall designs are also available that rely on minimal structural support from framing members.

Front Wall Stall Design Options

Custom arched tops to the front stall wall can lend a European polish to the style of a freestanding stall and can include brass finials, V-Yoke doors, fold up blanket bars all made from heavy tubing.

Low cut stall fronts add even more opportunity for horses to interact with activities in the barn and facilitate great views of the stabled horses for the visitor or caregivers. Be aware that as mentioned above, these front stall walls can allow stabled equine inhabitants too much access to the aisleway in times of excitement or unruly behavior.

Front Stall Door Designs

Sliding stall doors are a popular choice for center aisle barns for good reason. Many manufacturers offer a variety of styles that can feature a wooden “X’ design, a metal “X” design and grilled front stall doors can have a v-yoke option.

V-yoke stall doors with a drop yoke invite the horse to interact more fully with his surroundings. The barn posts may be used to support the modular stall construction. The front stall wall is technically not freestanding in this case as it does require the barn posts to hold it together.

Consider adding feed corner cut-outs in the stall front grille for easy feeding that saves the time required to open and close front stall doors.

All doors should have stops and guides both top and bottom to ensure horses are not able to kick out the door and that sliding doors cannot be run off their tracks.

Substituting hinged doors for sliding doors is also an option, and may be required if you opt for a low cut front stall wall design. Ensure that the quality of the hardware and support structure used for the hinged doors have the capacity to support the weight of the door, especially if the doors are made of wood.

Dividing Walls 

The more mesh/crosshatch or grilled surfaces between horses the better the ventilation and the greater the opportunity for contact both physical and visual for the stabled horses on each side of the wall.

It is wise to consider future use of the barn may include visiting horses, sale horses or horses that simply don’t get along and intimidate each other.

To avoid mealtime stress always place feed rations on the same side of each stall to ensure maximum distance between horses when they are eating.

Quick-take down systems for dividing walls that facilitate doubling up a stall space for use for rehabilitation of a horse, for foaling out mares and for use with mares with foals at foot are also an option.

Other types of partitions such as swinging dividing walls are also sometimes available, but consider carefully how these will operate on a daily basis and how safe they will be for use around horses. If the barn is being utilized as multi-purpose for horses and livestock such as cows, goats or sheep the swinging door option can be very useful for corralling the herd when a caregiver is working alone.

Dividing walls may require additional bracing to prevent warping or damage due to leaning or rubbing on their surfaces by the equine occupant.

Exterior Door Options

Plain wood works well for both stall Dutch doors and barn entry doors but wood by its very nature can be heavy and it requires strong hardware to both hang the doors and support the swing or slide of the doors when opened. There are other options that are more user friendly.

Pressure-treated plywood coated with a panel of galvanized metal that is painted to a color preference is a budget friendly way to introduce color to the barn design.

Doors can also be made of more than one panel and have a tongue and groove beaded aluminum panel that can be made of solid wood rather than a laminate like plywood. A variety of wood choices including exotic woods from a sustainable resource are available.

The use of aluminum alloy can provide a strength equal to steel that requires no maintenance and is a lightweight option that makes the doors easy to operate.

Aluminum doors can be made in any color and offer rust and rot protection. Special hardware is required and should be included with the pre-hung doors.

Many features within the barn can be changed from the ‘usual’ specifications. Always ask if there is a cost saving involved. Changes to barn design do not necessarily cost more money. In fact, some can actually save you money. For example, removing Dutch doors from the exterior stall walls or building an entry door of wood versus having a mullioned glass window incorporated.

If your dream barn build is coming in over budget, don’t be shy to ask where you can save costs.

Door Shape Counts

Door shapes run the gamut from fancy arched entry doors to one-piece sliding entry doors and customizable window designs and panel sizing.

The addition of windows with or without mullions to entry doors provides a great deal of natural light.

Spin The Color Wheel

Most manufacturers will offer a vast array of color options but custom paint and stain choices are also often available.

Don’t be shy to add color to the interior as well as the exterior of a horse barn. Color choices made with the aid of a color wheel help mitigate the chances of making a blunder in the color choice that might be regretted later.

Look for durable finishes for all surfaces that are UV and weather resistant.

Finishing Touches ~ Details Count

Interior designers know that small details that show the property owner’s personality can add much to the enjoyment and appeal of a space.

The addition of hand-polished or lacquered brass finials to the top of posts can provide a beautiful classic touch to the horse stall.

Door latches with extra style such as horseshoe shaped handles can add a neat detail to a line of stall doors. Special twist latches and ‘Houdini’ defeating latches are also something to consider especially if the horse inhabitant of the stall will have access to the stall door latch.

Don’t forget to add a metal chew guard to any wood surface a horse may be able to reach. Gnawed wood is not only unsightly, wood can be ingested by an equine and cause colic or other health issues. Chewable wood corners also invite bad habits such as windsucking and cribbing when a stabled horse becomes stressed or bored. Most modular barn building companies include chew guard with their standard barn designs or charge a small upgrade fee to cover its installation. It is well worth having!

Bridle/halter hooks, tie hooks, fold down blanket bars, saddle racks and hay racks can all be added to improve functionality.

Take Home Message

Don’t be shy to be adventurous when it comes to color palettes and changing up stall styles when it comes to the interior design of a horse barn. Always make your selection based on safety with ergonomic design in mind as a priority.

Design the space with a keen eye to your own preferences but also to the possibility of resale of the property too.

Remember, a barn can quickly become obsolete to service the horse housing needs if some forethought doesn’t go into the design. For example, kids will outgrow ponies and suddenly a 10’ x 10’ stall with no grills and half walls may not be sufficient to safely house a full-size horse.

The stronger the color palette chosen for the barn the higher the likelihood you may tire of the color. Light and dark colors affect the light, feeling of space and atmosphere within the barn significantly. It is well worth reading up on the topic for both interior and exterior color selection.

Did you know horses eyesight is poor when it comes to transitioning between bright light and poor light? Unlike our eyes their vision takes a long time to adjust to significant changes in light. It can take as long as 30 minutes to an hour for the horse to regain his full vision when moving from light to dark environments. This equine visual impediment is why event horses galloping into a shaded forest area to jump an obstacle will have trouble determining distances to the fence or its height. Mounted hunter/jumper riders in the know, collect inside indoor facilities when riding in from outside to compete rather than wait outside if possible, to facilitate their horses having time to adjust to the change in light and see the fences.

In the domesticated horse’s modern lifestyle, a light airy barn makes much sense. The addition of a window to each stall in a horse barn offers your equine partner a room with a view. The benefits of including windows in horse barn design go beyond keeping your horse mentally occupied with the opportunity to see what is going on outside the barn.

Barn windows provide natural light that can save on lighting costs and kill harmful bacteria within the stall. They also offer a valuable resource for passive airflow that can keep horses cooler in hot temperatures and dish up plenty of fresh air to improve the air quality for the horse’s respiratory health.

Fresh air everywhere, can of course be provided by specific horse barn designs such as shedrow barns, a style favored for advanced level performance horses by their astute competitive riders.

Dutch doors that open to the exterior of the horse barn can also improve the quality of life for the stabled horse for some of the same reasons a window offers. Run-in sheds can also incorporate windows in the back wall to improve ventilation and increase light within the interior.

Windows Are a Vital Component of Building Design

Windows also add an aesthetic appeal to the view of the exterior of the horse barn. They can be decorated with window boxes for added color and personal style. Certain herbs can even be planted in window boxes to deter insect activity and provide desirable scents/smells during late evening and early morning hours.

In high profile barns where a loft space is added, windows can be architecturally significant. For example, Palladian style windows (3 segmented arched windows often called a Venetian or Serlian window) placed at the second story level in the gable ends of the structure, can enhance the appearance of the building in addition to providing a valuable light and air resource.

The practice of decorating buildings with windows dates back many centuries. The relief provided from an open space in a wall is shown in drawings as far back in time as in the reliefs in Assyria, Egypt.

Today either translucent plastic or glass, the latter often in 2/3 layers for extra insulation is most common as a cover to the open window space, but in times gone by matting, mica and paper was used.

Windows have long been recognized as an important component of construction for the health of a structure’s occupants. The 1746 British glass tax was a hefty 300% excise tax placed on the value of the glass based on how it was then sold, by its weight. This meant only the wealthy could afford glass windows. Theoretically, the more glass a building displayed the wealthier its owners were deemed to be so large windows quickly established themselves as a ‘must have’ in houses commissioned for construction by the populace in the upper echelons of society. Hence the inclusion of glass conservatories and greenhouses in house construction was prestigious in architectural design during the Victorian era.

Sadly, until the tax was abolished in 1845, the use of glass in cities for low-income housing was limited. The British medical journal The Lancet, even noted the absence of glass in city housing had a deleterious effect on the populations’ health.

“ The deficiency of light in town habitations, in a great measure caused by the enormous cost of glass, is universally admitted to be one of the principal causes of the unhealthiness of cities.”

Thankfully glass tax is not a current issue so window size can be designed for horse barns without consideration for excessive taxation.

The inclusion of a window in each stall is standard when purchasing a modular or prefabricated horse barn, but special window styles or sizing may require an upgrade. On site pole and stick built construction firms may charge extra for each window so be certain to ascertain these extra costs before retaining a construction company for a horse barn build.

What Window Style Works Best in Horse Barns?

Common window styles such as single or double hung windows are not well designed for horse barns. These styles are difficult to open when located behind a grill and are better left to house design rather than horse barn design.

The ideal horse barn window will be easy to open and to clean.

For this reason, picture windows or transom style windows are not favored for use within a stall. Their benefits are that both styles offer a lot of light. Transom windows in particular can provide a lot of natural light when placed along exterior walls of the barn 10’ or more above the height of the stalls in high sided buildings.

However, like any window transoms can quickly become unsightly if not regularly cleaned. If placed high in a building the use of a ladder or long pole window-cleaning product will be required for the task. As vacuums are often used to clean stall windows before glass cleaning begins, high window options should be carefully evaluated.

Skylights above a stall can provide an exceptional quantity of light to the interior of the barn. These must be carefully installed to prevent leaks. Certain manufacturers offer ‘no clean’ glass treatments and provision to open the skylights. The closing and opening of skylights can be an onerous chore.

Within the stall a simple slider window design is a good option. It offers excellent access and is easy to clean with its large area surfaces unimpeded by metal or mullions. The disadvantage is that this style of window must be carefully managed to prevent drafts during winter months, or wind, water and snow entering the stall space during stormy weather.

The jalousie style window offers good ventilation. Airflow can be easily adjusted, and they can be left open during wet weather without the worry of water entering the stall. Additionally, the jalousie style window can also block direct sunlight from entering in the interior space.

However, jalousies offer poor security. The large glass slats are easily removed from the exterior side and are laborious to clean.

Another factor to consider in the choice of window is that of the effects of wind. Casement and awning style windows that open to the exterior of the building with a latch system are prone to damage from high winds and are generally not suitable for horse barn stalls. These styles of windows can also extrude from the exterior wall of the building and pose a hazard to passing equipment, horses and humans.

The Humble Window

The humble window offers a secure method for providing fresh air when the barn is closed for the night especially during cold weather. Grills or bars should obviously be fixed to the interior side of stall windows to protect the glass from damage/breakage occurring as a result of a horse’s antics. Ideally grills or bars should be placed 4” or more from the surface of the glass to safeguard its integrity.

Grills should be substantially constructed and if made of a type of metal prone to moisture damage it should be treated to prevent deterioration from rust.

Remember to consider how windows will be cleaned from the inside when the bars or grills are installed. While it is essential the grills are secure it is also important that they can be easily removed to facilitate cleaning of the glass and removal of the inevitable detritus of dead flies/cobwebs that will accumulate. A spring action lever that allows the entire grill to be dropped down works well. Don’t forget to screen the windows to help prevent the ingress of pesky flies and biting insects.

The interior framing in which a window is installed offers the perfect dining-in option for a bored horse with their 90-degree angle surfaces. The best option to prevent unsightly and possible harmful repercussions to the horse from chewing of the wood or plastic framework of the window is to install metal edging.

Keep Size and Style Selection in Perspective

The size of the stall window must be viewed from both the interior and exterior perspective. Proportionate size windows are essential to the aesthetic of the horse barn.

The windows should generally not be so large to present as a window wall due to the dangers this might present to a 1500-pound horse stabled inside the stall domain. Specially engineered window walled stalls do exist in high-end designer barns and are occasionally constructed in elite yards. The practicality of large glass windows in horse barn construction is generally beyond the budget of most horse owners even if it was desired.

Whatever size window is chosen, the window should be large enough for horse to enjoy the view. Tiny windows will not only look silly they will also serve little purpose.

Window placement at the eye height of the intended equine inhabitant when standing is common practice. Specially designed ‘diddy’ barns for minis, mules, donkeys, goats or other smaller livestock can similarly be constructed with windows at anticipated eye level for the animals housed within the confines of the structure.

Don’t forget at whatever height the windows are installed cleaning them will be a regular ritual. It is also useful though not essential, for the human caregiver to also be able to see out of the window when working in the stall to assess activity outside the barn.

Image from Pixabay

Whether you have an outdoor kennel for your dog, are managing a boarding or training facility or just have an outdoor area for your pet, when you have animals outside—rodents tend to be an issue. While many people think of mice and rats as a problem for dirty on unkempt spaces only, rodents can actually be a problem in any outdoor space, even clean and safe ones.

Simply put, when you have pets, animal feces, and food outdoors, it is going to attract rodents. While your pets may not be particularly phased by these critters or may even try to catch the rodents they find wandering around your property, it doesn’t mean they are safe.

Plus, pests like this can carry a number of diseases that aren’t good for dogs and may cause some serious health issues. Mice and rats also cause an estimated $20 billion in property and agricultural damages every year. They can not only cause disease and consume food, but they can chew through and destroy property as well.

Mice in particular are also great multipliers; these critters can survive and reproduce in temperatures as low as 24 degrees if they have a nesting space and food. Plus, a single mouse couple can create more than 15,000 offspring. This means, that even if you think you only see a mouse or two in your outdoor kennels, it won’t take long for those two mice to turn into a serious problem.

Why Do Outdoor Dog Kennels Attract Rodents?

Image from Pixabay

Dog food is the primary reasons hungry rodents find their way into dog kennels. Rats specifically known for devouring dog food when you aren’t looking. The average rat can eat up to 61 pounds of dog food per year. That not only takes away from your canine companion but can result in a lot of wasted money every year.

In addition to food, dog droppings are also a big attractant for these pests. Add this to the fact that kennels provide warmth and protection from the elements, and it is easy to see why many outdoor kennels can be a living (and breeding) hub for mice and rats.

At the end of the day, your dog’s outdoor kennel can seem like a free luxury resort for mice and rats and they won’t take kindly to getting the boot. This is why you need a safe and effective plan to get your unwanted rodents to leave your dog’s kennel in a way that is bad for the rodents but won’t harm your dog. And unfortunately, this can be easier said than done.

This is why we have compiled a list of some of the best tips on how to keep mice out of dog kennels and food bowls for a healthy and rodent-free space.

How To Keep Your Dog’s Kennel Rodent-Free

Whether you suspect you have a rodent problem or know for sure that you are trying to evacuate your dog’s kennel from unwanted mice and rats—having a plan is paramount. Here are some of the best ways to safeguard your dog’s kennel shed from harmful rats.

1. Keep An Eye On Popular Nesting Areas

Image from Pixabay

When rats and mice infiltrate your dog’s kennel area, they are looking for two things: food and a place to nest. Rodents will move on when food runs out, but nesting space is what gets them to stay and multiply.

You should always be on the lookout for areas that serve as nesting spots for rodents, and thoroughly check your outdoor kennel for holes, covered, warm dark places, crawl spaces and other areas where rodents can nest and stay protected. Holes and large cracks should be fixed and filled, and the kennel should be thoroughly clean and inspected regularly.

Meters and electric panels are also popular nesting sites for rodents, so if you have any outdoors or nearby your dog’s kennel, make sure they are thoroughly investigated for possible rodent infestations.

2. Pay Close Attention to Utility Lines

Did you know that utility lines are actually a popular way for rodents to get from place to place? You may have sealed off all of the ground entrances to your dog’s kennel, but rodents are great climbers and have sharp claws that allow them to run along ropes, poles and electric wires.

When sealing your dog’s kennel or treating possible points of entry, do not forget to look up to the sky and see if your rodents may be coming in from the roof.

3. Keep The Kennel Clean

Cleaning your dog’s kennel regularly is one of the best methods for preventing rodent issues. Dog feces are a huge draw for rats and mice and is seen as a food source for them. So, keeping your dog’s droppings cleaned up is a great place to start.

Also keeping any spilled food or treats will help keep things clean and give rodents fewer reasons to burrow their way into your dog’s space.

4. Protect Your Pet’s Food

Image from Pixabay

Your dog’s food is typically the number one reason that rats and mice find their way into your dog’s kennel in the first place. If you store your dog’s food outside, make sure that it is in an airtight container. Do not leave your dog’s food out for open feeding. Feed your dog at a certain time of day and then remove the food when you are done.

Make sure to quickly clean up your dog’s feeding area when they are done as well. Less food means less temptation for unwanted rodents. To prevent these unwanted pests, consider investing in a rat-proof dog feeder or a mouse-proof dog bowl designed to keep rodents at bay.

5. Try Dog-Safe Rodent Treatments

When it comes to keeping kennels rodent-free, prevention is only half the battle. This is especially true if you’ve seen active rodents scurrying around your dog’s kennel. You never want to use any type of rat poison around your dog’s kennel as it can lead to secondary pet poisoning.

Rodenticides are some of the most common reasons for dog poisoning cases. Your dog may not only ingest the pesticide itself, but it can get in the grass around the area, or your dog may eat the deceased rodent and ingest the pesticide in that way.

The best solution is to use an outdoor bait and trap rat trap. These non-toxic traps will lure rodents in via a small hole that is too small for a dog, and trap them inside. This type of “live trap” is safer than sticky or snap traps when you are using it outdoors or around pets.

6. Invest in the Right Kennel

Mice and rats are going to do everything that they can to get into a warm and well-protected kennel. However, if you have the right quality kennel to begin with, the chances of you having a rodent problem will become significantly lower.

A high-quality outdoor shed made with premium materials and that isn’t filled with holes, cracks or crevices that welcome rodents in, is one of the best ways for you to keep your dog safe and keep rodents out of the way.

Here at Horizon Structures, we know that your first and best line of defense when it comes to unwanted pests is a quality structure that will safely and naturally keep rodents out. This is why we put so much attention to detail into our kennels and outdoor sheds so that you and your canine companions can stay as safe as possible under our watch.

What about our furry buddies? Is it okay for dogs to eat mushrooms?

There is no single answer to that question. There are several varieties of mushrooms. Some are edible, but some are toxic.

Like many dog owners, that response could trigger more questions than answers. So we have prepared a series of questions and expertly drawn responses to help you understand the facts around dogs eating mushrooms.

Photo by Marek Szturc on Unsplash

Which mushrooms are safe for your dog?

The only mushrooms that would be safe for your dog are the ones that you can eat. That means nothing from the woods, nothing that sprouts in your backyard, and nothing from a source you cannot verify. Mushrooms like Portobello, Cremini, Shiitake, and Morel are excellent additions to your dog’s diet. Anything you can purchase at the store and is certified as “safe for humans” should be safe for your dog.

Mushrooms don’t just taste great. They contain rich doses of vital minerals and powerful antioxidants. Including mushrooms in your dog’s diet will boost your dog’s health, and the oxidants counter chronic ailments such as cancer.

But there is another group; toxic mushrooms. Out of 50,000 different types of mushrooms, Pet Food Sherpa explains that approximately 2% of them are poisonous.

Which mushrooms are toxic for your dog?

If the mushrooms are not from the store, or if they randomly appeared in your yard or the woods, they could be toxic.

Many varieties of mushrooms could harm your dog. Mushrooms like the Death cap, Deadly Galerina, Jeweled death cap, Deadly Agaric, and False Morel are toxic to dogs and could be lethal.

Here’s the critical fact you should get; it is hard to differentiate between safe and unsafe mushrooms. You would have to be a mycologist to do that.

A wrong choice could be a fatal error for your dog. So, avoid feeding your dog mushrooms apart from the edible ones you get from the store.

Is it okay to allow the dog to forage? Can your dog tell which mushrooms are safe?

Dogs have an acute sense of smell. Scientists believe that a dog’s sense of smell is 10,000 times better than humans. Breeds like the Bloodhound or Basset hound could have a sense of smell that is 100,000 times better than humans.

But your dog cannot tell if a mushroom is safe or toxic. Some toxic mushrooms like the Death cap have a fish-like odor which to most dogs is irresistible. Dogs don’t have an inbuilt mechanism to differentiate the safe and unsafe mushrooms. Your dog could happily chow down a chunk of the Death cap mushroom without a clue of what it could do. That is until you find the dog lying on the ground writhing in pain or in a coma.

If you plan for outdoor excursions, take adequate measures to keep your dog safe.

What are the signs of toxic mushroom ingestion?

You may not be around to witness your dog eating that toxic wild mushroom. Perhaps he was just bored and decided to stroll for a few seconds, and you didn’t notice. After all, it only takes a couple of seconds. But whenever you find your dog chewing on something, yet it is not meal or snack time, it could mean trouble.

Immediate signs of mushroom ingestion are signs of chewing and fragments of the fungi around your dog’s lips or in the vicinity.

If you notice mushrooms around the dog, call the vet immediately. Don’t try to figure out the type of mushroom your dog could have ingested.

However, if you do not see any mushroom fragments around the vicinity, look out for the following later signs:

• Vomiting and diarrhea – inspect what comes from your dog’s bowels. Does it contain mushroom fragments? Collect a sample and give it to the vet.
• Excessive salivation
• Excessive urination
• Muscle tremors.
• Drunken gait.
• Jaundice
• Seizures and coma.

How your dog will be affected depends on the type of mushroom and the quantity he ate.

As you may notice, the signs above are not unique to mushroom poisoning. Therefore, it is crucial to take your dog to the vet for further examination.

Photo by Jamie Street on Unsplash

What should you do if you suspect your dog ingested mushrooms?

The first action is to contact your vet and explain the situation. Then rush your dog to the nearest vet emergency room.

Toxic mushrooms can be fatal. Even if your dog seems okay, it could be a phase. Poisonous mushrooms like the Death cap will cause severe gastrointestinal discomfort. This phase is followed by a lull period when the dog will seem to have recovered from the poisoning. But it does not last long. The dog then experiences organ failure, and it could be fatal.

Vets also advise pet parents not to try and identify the mushroom. Instead, focus on getting your dog to the emergency room.

Photo by Natasha Arefyeva on Unsplash

Treatment for mushroom poisoning in dogs

Depending on the type and quantity of mushroom ingested, the vet will recommend specific treatment. In some cases, they may induce vomiting. If you can carry a sample, the vet will examine it and figure out appropriate treatment faster.

Dogs and mushrooms, final thoughts

Mushrooms are an excellent addition to your dog’s diet. But ensure that you serve mushrooms that are safe for you and the dog. If it’s not from the store, it could be toxic. So, don’t allow your dog to forage in your yard or any other outdoor location. One bite of a poisonous mushroom could be fatal. To keep your canine family member safe from roaming and finding harmful items to ingest, consider providing them shelter in a Horizon Structures Dog Kennel.

But just in case you suspect your dog has swallowed some toxic mushroom, talk to a vet first – don’t bother identifying the mushroom. Then find the nearest vet ER. Your furry buddy depends on your swift action.

When horse owners contemplate relinquishing control over their precious equines’ care and custody to others, for even a limited period of time, it is inevitable that a certain amount of apprehension will exist.

Commercial horse farm operations are usually staffed with trained equine care givers ready to step in and take over the well-being of horses kept on the property when the barn owner heads out of town. The backyard horsekeeper does not usually have a team of equestrian professionals well-versed in the equine inhabitants and their needs at hand to take over the reins in their absence. Even on a temporary basis.

Here are some tips on how to best set up your horses and their temporary caregiver(s) for success when you need to leave the farm for whatever reason, family emergencies, planned vacations or days away at clinics/competition. While obviously having a family member or trusted friend ‘farm sit’ and stay at your home for the duration of your absence, sometimes that is not possible. This advice is based on my 25+ years of experience owning and operating a small horse breeding farm and dressage yard.

Make A List And Check It Twice

Most things in life go a lot smoother if you have the opportunity to instigate procedures with forward planning. Think of your list as a “Standard Operating Protocol”, an SOP. Simply put this is a set of written instructions that document a repetitive activity or routine with guidelines as to how that task is to be completed.

These guidelines should encompass the regular procedure that will be conducted in a hopefully normal situation and also what to do should the ’situation’ not appear or be ‘normal’. Naturally, with neophyte horse caregivers recognizing what is ‘not normal’ needs to be addressed.

With animal care there is usually a mandated timeline for the activity to be put into action within a 24-hour timeframe. Activities such as grain feeding hours; check in times for visits to the farm to ensure water level status in outside tanks; ensuring appropriate hay supplies are available.

The list will obviously detail emergency contact information for all relevant resources such as veterinarians, fire/EMS and police. Plus an evacuation plan if the property is located in an area of high risk for hurricanes, fires or floods. Also include a provision/contact information for snow removal services if unpredictable winter weather is likely to occur.

Don’t forget to also include on the list your own contact information for emergency or daily check in contact and those of your next of kin in case anything dastardly happens to you while you are absent.

There is truly no better piece of mind than having a caregiver take a quick video of your horses when visits are made and forward it to you via smartphone. These videos are automatically date stamped and give you a quick personal check in and assure you that your caregiver is in attendance on schedule.

This is especially helpful if during travel your access to Wifi may be intermittent. Security cameras may be active on the property and back up automatically at a later time to the ‘cloud’ after temporary Wifi failures. But there is nothing quite as good as knowing first hand that your nominated caregiver has visited in person and provided human contact with the horse(s), even if that video is not viewable until you are in a location where Wifi service is available.

If you expect to be out of WiFi service areas for extended periods of time, consider asking a family member or trusted friend to receive the data transmitted from your farm security system and add as an additional party on the network.

As you become more experienced leaving your horses in the care of others the specifics of your list will change. Adaptations may need to be made for a horse that needs special attention due to age. Whether rambunctious youngsters or senior equines, gestating mares or mares with foals at foot, or injured/chronically ill horses at the farm, many horses will require special attention.

Whatever the routines you expect your caregiver to follow during their visits, ensure your horses are already established in such routines before you leave. This will lessen any stress they may experience due to the absence of you, their primary and known caregiver. Horses take comfort and security from a regular schedule of events. For example, don’t decide on the day you are leaving that now is a good time to switch a horse to a different field or stop graining or bringing the horse in at night.

Don’t be afraid to include a list of Do’s and Don’ts. This list can be an FAQ guide to your wishes and indicate personal preferences that may not readily occur in the mind of even the most trusted friend or relative that knows you well and steps in to help.

Some examples on the Do’s and Don’ts list might be:

• Don’t enter paddocks with turned out horses unless medically necessary
• Don’t move horses from one paddock to another or mix horses from their existing herds
• Don’t offer more feed rations than indicated
• Don’t bring guests to the farm in your absence (especially unsupervised children and dogs off leash)
• Do check the electric fence(s) is working (provide an electric fence tester and show the caregiver how to use it)
• Do check all gates are locked and all fencing intact and all horses present and correct
• Do check all barn/house doors/windows are closed and locked as appropriate

How to Source Caregivers

Reliability and attention to detail are key traits the caregiver should exhibit, and some knowledge of horses is of course helpful. That being said an over zealous horse knowledgeable caregiver that oversteps the instructions with all good intentions, can be at best annoying and at worst end up inadvertently causing problems at the farm.

Make it clear that you don’t want your caregiver to exercise their judgment without checking in with you first if that is an option. The list of possibilities of how a caregiver can overstep is endless: perhaps it is raining and the horses are consequently wet so the caregiver decides to bring them all into the barn, unsettling horses that are used to living outside 24/7; the weather turns colder and the help decided its best to feed the horses a larger ration of grain; the caregiver determines that it would be a good idea to ride a particular horse to keep it exercised.

Make it clear in your SOP that instructions need to be precisely followed, without adaptations based on the help’s personal preferences. Concerns can be usually be addressed by phone.

It is a good idea to have a back up caregiver in place just in case the first choice lets you down at the last minute or for whatever reason (vehicle breakdown/bad weather/illness etc.) and can’t attend.

Personally I have two different people check in on the farm/horses during my absence, at separate times of day. The primary caregiver is responsible for the care of the horses and the second person simply checks the farm is secure and that all looks well. It is a good idea to have both parties meet in advance of your departure, so each knows clearly what their role is during your absence and everyone is on the same page. This avoids confusion and also doubles up the certainty that the horses’ care will be well attended to while you are away.

Options for holiday horse care can be professional sub-contracted pet-sitting services, a family member or friend, a neighbor. Whoever you choose, don’t be shy to check out their references and do a background check if they are not known to you personally.

If you opt for utilizing a professional service, ensure liability insurance is in place to cover their employees while conducting their tasks on your property. The company should provide you with a Certificate of Insurance that names you as an insured, defines policy limits and indicates the coverage is current and in force.

What To Leave Behind

Here is a general list of things to leave behind when you depart from your backyard horse farm. Obviously each situation is different and the list will need some personalization.

• Supplies for fence repairs including tools
• A dry, secure space to house a horse requiring medical treatment (if not leaving access to the barn, consider leaving a key to the building with a trusted person for emergency use. Tack rooms and offices within the barn can always be kept locked with a separate key or system).
• Halters and ropes
• A basic medical kit for horse and human
• Spare blankets
• A spare water hose
• Add trail cams or security cameras if none on site.
• Access to horse trailer/transport if appropriate

Don’t Second Guess Yourself

It is not easy to leave your horses behind when you leave home, but it is also not good to miss out on opportunities for family gatherings/events, relaxing vacations and travel. When you take time out away from horse care and farm duties it provides a chance for you to reboot, recharge and refresh yourself.

The most important thing to leave behind when you head off down the driveway is guilt.

Everything will most likely go smoothly in your absence and if anything does go awry most issues can be easily addressed. In the unlikely event a major trauma occurs know that you have done everything possible to mitigate the chances of it happening and in all likelihood it would have happened anyway.

Thoughtful preparations enable you to relax, knowing you have done all that you can do.

It’s already fall, and winter will be here before you know it. So if you have pets, you should start making plans right now to make sure they stay healthy, comfortable and safe during the busy months ahead. From soothing aches to preparing for fall road trips, there’s actually quite a bit to think about, but these tips can help you get started.

Visit Horizon Structures for high-quality and carefully designed prefab horse barns,
dog kennels, greenhouses, chicken coops, and more! Call 1-888-44SHEDS today.

Start by Scheduling a Check-Up for Your Pet

If your furkids tend to get stiff as the temperatures drop, they may be suffering from arthritis. Arthritic pain and inflammation can worsen during the cooler months, and this is just one of the many ways that cold weather can affect your dog’s health.

The best way to minimize these impacts is to schedule regular wellness exams with your vet, so that you can address any seasonal concerns. Younger pets should be seen at least once a year but senior pets should get checked out every six months or so.

If you are worried about how the fall and winter weather will affect your pets, you can schedule these checkups during October or November, when symptoms may start to pop up. Your vet can prescribe medications and treatments to alleviate any discomfort your dogs may be experiencing but you can also try more natural remedies like CBD treats. CBD has shown promise for treating pain, inflammation and anxiety, but you should research dosage and ingredient guidelines, and read through reviews of CBD pet products.

Find Ways to Keep Your Dog Warm & Active

Depending on where you live, the weather may make it difficult to get out for walks with your dog during the fall and winter. This reduction in activity can lead to weight gain for you and your furry family members. While a little extra fluff may not be harmful for you, a few extra pounds can be dangerous for your pet.

If you notice your pup’s ribs tend to become invisible during the colder months, or any other signs of seasonal weight gain, you may need to find alternative ways to keep him active. Agility toys can be a fun way to get your pup moving inside, so think about picking up tunnels, rings and hurdles to help your dog get the physical and mental stimulation needed to stay healthy. You can even set up an agility course in your backyard, which can also help keep you moving during the fall and winter.

If your pup is going to exercise in your yard, it’s wise to have him run around in an enclosed space. A fence around your property’s perimeter will prevent your dog from escaping and wandering into neighbors’ properties. If you have any dead tree limbs or branches, you’ll want to have these removed as well before any winter storms hit. Visit Angi to find reliable professionals who have the knowledge, experience, and equipment necessary to remove potentially dangerous branches. Always ask for an upfront estimate and customer referrals.

Make Sure Your Pet is Prepared for Holiday Travel

If you plan on traveling with a pet during the holidays, you will want to make sure you have a few essentials as well, including car restraints. Seatbelts are a must for your pets, even if your pup is used to roaming free and sniffing while riding shotgun. For one, all of that bouncing around can be a distraction for drivers, but you also want your pets to be secure in the event of an accident. Otherwise, your pet could be thrown around the car and injured, or he could even get scared and run away. So before you buckle your own seat belt, ensure your pets are buckled in.

You should also double check that you have visible and updated tags on your pup’s collar. If you need to pick up a new collar or tags, you can find many customizable and stylish options. You can pick up other pet supplies on this site as well, including new leashes, toys and beds. It’s also good to keep a pet first aid kit in your car at all times.

Cooler weather can bring more adventures for you and your furry family members! Schedule a checkup and stock up on supplies so that you can make sure your best friend stays cozy, safe and healthy during the months ahead.

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Whether we feel ready or not, winter is right around the corner. And for many dog owners that means making sure their canine companion has a warm and winterized kennel. Your dog’s kennel is their home, and just like your home, there are a few things you will want to do to get it ready for winter.

If your pet has their own outdoor structure—it is important that you winterize it for when cold weather hits. The good news is, this is a fairly easy practice, but one that can make all the difference to your pet.

While most structures will provide coverage from wind, snow, and rain, not all outdoor kennels are durable enough to keep cold out as well. This is why winterizing is so important. Here are some dog kennel ideas for winter to get started.

Inspecting Your Dog’s Kennel

Before you get to work winterizing your kennel, you should perform a quick inspection of the structure. Here are some things to look for.

• Start by making sure you have the right kennel. The interior space of the kennel should be big enough for your pet to move around in, but not so big that their body heat can’t help warm the space.
• Determine if your kennel is in the right spot. Ideally, kennels should be placed against a shed or house to protect it from wind. If you have a particularly wet yard, make sure the kennel is raised off the ground.
• Use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the structure, paying close attention to the seams to make sure you can’t see water, ice or wind coming through.
• Check the roof for leaks. Pour water or run a hose over the roof to reveal leaks inside the kennel. Repair as needed.
• Utilize weatherstripping to keep drafts at bay. You can use the same weatherstripping materials you use on your home.
• Put the right bedding inside your kennel. This includes hay, cedar ships or wood shavings. This thick bedding should be at least six inches deep.
• Use pea gravel in outdoor run areas to promote proper drainage. It can also be used as a trench surrounding their kennel to prevent flooding.

After you perform this inspection, it is time to get to work to make these changes so your dog’s home is ready for those cooler days. The smallest changes can make the biggest difference in your dog’s kennel and how warm and dry it stays.

Tips Keeping Your Dog Warm When the Weather Cools

Once your dog’s kennel is all winterized, you can feel good knowing that your dog has a safe space to call home. However, there are even more things you should be doing to make sure your dog stays safe.

Remember, not all dogs love the cold. While certain breeds like huskies, collies and labs love the cold and can tolerate these conditions relatively well, not all dogs can. Yorkies, chihuahua and boxers tend to notoriously get cold and may not handle freezing temperatures as well.

Set your dog up for success and keep them comfortable with a winterized kennel, and by following these tips on how to keep a dog kennel warm throughout the winter to keep them happy.

Fix The Position of Your Dog’s Bed

If you dog has a bed inside their kennel box, make sure you position it in the optimal spot and try to keep it away from the door or any other particularly drafty areas.

Check Your Dog

When it’s really, really cold out, make sure you are checking your dog for symptoms. Dogs show similar symptoms of being cold as people do. If your dog has a runny nose, is lethargic, shivers, has watery eyes or is showing signs of a fever— he may be too cold. This means you will either need to move your dog inside or adapt their kennel accordingly.

Keep Chemicals Out of the Kennel

Chemicals can really irritate your dog’s delicate paws, especially in the winter. Make sure that you aren’t using harsh chemicals inside your dog’s kennel. If there is ice around your dog’s kennel or in their outdoor space, do not use de-icing chemicals that can irritate your dog even more.

Add Heaters for Comfort

There are several different doghouse heaters and heated bed options for your pet. You shouldn’t always have heaters on, but if it is particularly cold certain nights, then it may be time to add a heating element.

Check The Kennel’s Bedding

You should be checking on and cleaning your dog’s bedding throughout the winter. In addition to cleaning the bedding, you should make sure there is enough bedding for your dog to make at least six inches of bedding to snuggle up in.

Little efforts like this, along with proper winterization can make all the difference for your dog this winter.

While it’s always important to start with winterization, the best way to make sure that your pet is safe, warm, and comfortable all winter long, is to make sure you have the right kennel. All the winterizing in the world won’t replace a high-quality kennel.

Here at Horizon Structures, we know just how important quality is when it comes to your pet. This is why Horizon uses premium materials to create warm and safe shelters that you and your dog can rely on.

A Horizon Structures outdoor dog kennel keeps your dogs warm, dry, and cozy all winter long.  Our Standard Features include a 4” pressure-treated wood foundation that keeps the entire kennel structure out of direct contact with the ground, R-13 batten insulation in the walls and ceiling and R-13 closed cell spray foam insulation in the floor.  The natural insulating properties of our wood siding and shingle roofing offers additional protection against the elements for the canine occupants.

8×16 / 2-dog ‘Traditional’ kennel with metal siding and roofing upgrade