In some instances, little attention is paid to whether the horse barn or indoor arena roof has the perfect pitch in design and construction until it’s too late. When calamity strikes and photos of a collapsed barn roof due to heavy snow loads from a storm or pictures of metal roofs peeled back by the wind like a can of sardines hit the newswire, then horse property owners may cast a worried look up at their own horse housing structures and regard the sturdiness of the apparent design.

If worrying about the perfect pitch for your new horse barn is ‘over your head’ then you are not alone. Engineers and architects spend years drafting their skills to include a mind-blowing number of mathematical formulas learning about structural design. Included in their education is how to calculate physical loads on headers and beams and other support systems within a structure.

Every building is different and should be treated on an individual basis. Depending on the geographical area where it is to be built and the present and possible future use of the structure, every horse barn needs to wear its own ’hat’. The initial load calculations work on the basis that the roof is flat and is then amended to take account of the slope or pitch of the roof and its design and material components.

The Loaded Question

If you are working with an established and experienced construction company that provides professionally engineered plans and follows legal protocols for building your barn, the nuances of roof pitch and roof support systems will be well-taken care of, and your new horse barn should weather adverse weather conditions just fine. But it doesn’t hurt to have a basic understanding of what’s important in roof design so you can ask the right questions with a decent level of knowledge on the topic.

Three types of load factor into the equations. Live load, dead or total load, and uplift load. As budget concerns also factor into every building design equation, it is easy to be tempted to cut corners by cutting costs and working close to tolerance margins.

Factoring loads will require consideration and review of all structural members of the barn. These items may include beams, rafters and headers, and walls. How these members are tied or joined together is also assessed, as obviously the strength and integrity of how these components fit together is often the weakest link.

Total load refers to the passive load that the roof will carry such as the weight of the roof itself, pipe supports and any equipment likely to be added to the roof. This may include insulation attached to its underside or lights or other equipment suspended from its rafters or trusses.

Live load refers to temporary concerns the roof may endure. The most important of these considerations is snow load. If you’ve ever picked up a snow shovel and cleared pathways free of snow through a winter season, then you know that snow comes in different weights and different amounts of drift occur as a result of the amount of water in the snow. So expected wind speeds must also be taken into account when calculating live loads.

As if that isn’t enough temperature also factors into the mathematical formula as by laws of chemistry and physics the rate of ice melt, freeze and thaw and likely shedding rate of the load must be reviewed. And that’s not all.

How frequent is the snowfall likely to be? For example, a barn roof located in Alaska or the Yukon, may be piled high with snow for many months at a time, while an errant snowfall in the Carolinas is not likely to stick around for a long period. The cumulative effect matters. It’s all a matter of combinations and permutations in probability. But let’s not get buried in High School math class.

Ice weighs more than snow. Don’t forget that ice damming and the thermal loss from inside the building that can accentuate the issue of ice melt means how the roof and building is insulated, whether the interior of the building is heated, and the type of roof materials used, must also be incorporated by the savvy engineer into the planned barn roof design.

Barn design plans should also address where the entrances to the structure will be placed to ensure that access is possible when the roof sheds its snow load. Therefore, you see entry doors to barns, garages and other buildings placed at the gable ends. A porch roof, dormer roof or ice deflection system may be needed for doorways placed on the long side of the structure to ensure safe passage during snow and ice shed events.

Water in the form of anticipated rainfall should also be assessed. Gutters and drainage systems to take water away from the foundation of the building as it is shed off the roof are essential.

Yes, its complicated to measure live load and yes, no wonder it is over most property owners’ heads, literally and figuratively.

But wait there’s more! Uplift load is created when the wind hits the walls of the structure and is then pushed to the roofline because of the impact. The angle of the roof and its dead load weight will determine how much uplift force is exacted by the wind. Sustained high wind speed will do more damage than wind that gusts at the same speed.

Issues with uplift load can be addressed with the use of heavier building materials, heavy duty metal ties or substantial mortise and tenon joinery (the strongest form of joinery in carpentry such as those used in timber frame barns) and the style of the roof. For example, a hip roof or circular roof will generally fare better in regions of high wind that an A shaped roof or shed roof.

Careful siting of the structure to address the prevailing winds, hurricane proofing ties and other special joinery methods can address the risk of wind damage given the rules are followed as to what is needed.

How well a building will tolerate disturbance from earthquakes and tremors is another risk that must be assessed in certain areas of the country.

The Slippery Slope

Local town councils and their building and planning departments generally oversee and govern the risk assessment and acceptable tolerances for any build. Armed with federal building codes and suggested tolerances for the risk assessed in their geographic regions due to weather, the local building inspector is well-equipped to answer questions and to monitor compliance with requirements.

However, micro-factors such as whether the property is at an extreme elevation and where the structure is to be sited should also be considered. Some examples: Is the structure is to be set on the brow or lee of a hill? What is its overall height? Will the structure be set to face north or with a gable end toward prevailing winds etc.?

If you employ an engineer or architect to design the barn and provide plans, expect them to ask lots of questions. These may include inquiries as to the exact site of the barn, its intended use present day and future, and whether its use will be strictly residential or commercial. The latter requiring considerably more safety measures be factored into the design. These additional considerations will include more than the risk tolerance of the roof. Details such as exit locations, numbers of exits and a myriad of other concerns will be analyzed.

When you purchase a prefabricated or modular horse barn from a reputable company the complicated math science will already have been factored into the designs. Their standard style offerings can be tweaked or adjusted as necessary for set up in your specific neighborhood and a full set of plans (certified by an engineer if needed) is usually available for a fee if a permit is required by your town building department.

In certain states it is possible for the construction company to apply or ‘pull’ a permit from your town building department on your behalf. Don’t be shy to ask for advice when purchasing a barn. A good construction company will have assign a Project Manager you can liaise with directly to address any concerns and most questions can be answered before you put down a deposit on a structure.

Because the horse barn is generally considered an agricultural building it is not uncommon for no permit, permission, or review of the building plans to be required. As no oversight is undertaken by the town hierarchy the construction company or property owner is left to do as they please.

Sadly, by default this often results in ultimate adverse consequences in the soundness and integrity of the structure. The obvious ramifications of which are injury or death to humans, their horses, other livestock, pets, and possible damage or destruction to vehicles and equipment, neighboring or adjunct property.

Material Matters

Basic understanding of how the ‘hat your barn wears’ is designed and constructed will enable you to make better decisions in what materials you choose for the roof itself too. While different species of wood have different strengths, and grades of lumber offer variant levels of support, most horse owners are indifferent to such details, and these will be managed by the construction company and included in the drafted plans for the build and dictated by what products are locally available.

Prospective barn owners worry about factors such as what color the roof is going to be and whether the roof will be sheathed with metal or coated with shingle. There will likely be discussions on whether the roof will be loud during hail and rainstorms disturbing life inside if metal is used, whether the roof should be insulated, and concerns about the likelihood shingles might blow off in high winds. But it is essential that basic tenets of safe construction are followed throughout the planning process of the design and that ultimate the build accurately follows those edicts.

Realizing that questions of load bearing values are all valid and need to be addressed and how they factor into the big picture in barn design will hopefully not be overlooked.

I speak from experience when I say if you make a mistake in barn roof shape and design you will only do it once. Consult a professional! It’s worth trotting the extra mile.

The Spring influx of fluffy cute chicks at the local feed store has many of us cooing and contemplating how a fresh egg supply from our own well-nurtured hens would add quality to our lives. Then of course there’s the friend or internet post that filters past us offering a flock of hens for free. Tempting indeed.

Whatever inspires your interest in keeping chickens in your backyard, the first place you probably go to get answers to your chicken questions is our old friend Google. Based on their most popular searches on topic here’s a slightly warped and humorous look at the common questions asked and some answers that may surprise even the more experienced chicken keepers.

1. Are Chicken Coops Loud?

Obviously, the coop itself is a soundless entity but of course certain noises may emanate from the hens housed inside its confines.

Well, I wouldn’t suggest placing the chicken coop under your bedroom window. But your chickens probably won’t break out and party or invite other neighborhood chickens over to hang out, turn up the music and be discovered dancing the night away. But a rooster is a different story.

These lads often follow their own time schedule and cock-a-doodling can happen anytime, most usually though with the advent of Mother Nature’s cacophony of dawn birdsong for harmonizing help.

Aside from the rooster early wake up call, chickens are live critters and they are capable of making sounds. Cluck. Cluck. Chickens can argue with each other but generally are peaceful to be around and entertaining to watch. When distressed by loud noises or unusual activity in their environment they will usually run off and hide versus stand and fight with a perceived adversary.

Beware pulling eggs out from under a nesting bird. This can cause loud commentary from the offended hen, and we can’t really blame her for that (and watch your fingers too). Coops designed with nesting boxes neatly provided with access from outside are a boon for quick egg collection and an additional bonus is you don’t have to step in the chicken poop mire or face down the ire of the broody hen to collect your supply.

2. What Size Chicken Coop Do I Need?

Chickens don’t follow the human foibles of wanting a big house to impress the neighbor. Whether they live in a coop the size of an apartment, a house, a mansion or even an RV style ‘tractor pull’ unit, the flock will likely be perfectly content to have shelter from the winds and wild weather events. But then of course the chicken isn’t usually the one holding a credit card or writing a check. Though hens have been seen sitting on a windowsill and watching TV, in general the shopper is of the human variety. For humans the size and aesthetic quality of the chicken coop that will likely sit in the view from a window of their house is likely to matter. Though it might be more prudent to focus on the actual comfort and design of the coop for daily functionality and cleaning.

If you don’t want your chickens bunked up like college students in a dormitory, and would like to allow them some space to feel the most comfortable with neighbors not of their choosing, the general rule of thumb is to allow 3 square feet of space per chicken inside the coop and 15 square feet of roaming space per chicken outside the coop. Here is an informative article on ‘How To Keep ‘Cluckingham Palace Residents Happily Housed’, for more info.

3. Do Chicken Coops Smell?

French beauty houses have not yet made an eau de parfum, cologne or perhaps better titled eau de toilette based on the olfactory delights of chicken coop aromas. The ‘nose’ of the perfumer would likely be offended by most smells to be found on a farm, and chickens do fit into the profile of farm critters.

That is not to say that chicken coops need to be hotbeds of stinky odors and chicken poop. Unless you live in a cold region of the country and are using the deep litter method of leaving hay, straw, or shavings on the chicken house floor to build up with manure and produce a heat source for the chickens in cold weather, the coop can be kept clean with a regular cleaning.

This is where the matter of ease of access and the type of flooring inside the coop comes to light.

Consider your kitchen floor laid with a smooth seamless smooth surface such as vinyl or tile versus an unsealed wide board rough lumber floor. Some floors are more cleanable than others. Then factor in whether the kitchen is littered with chairs, a table and even permanently fixed objects that must be cleaned around. Nooks and crannies are much harder to clean than open areas.

Nesting boxes that can be accessed from outside make cleaning easier, as do polyurea or other coated floors that are properly seamed under the wall of the henhouse and not seamed at the edge where the wall meets the interior space. The roosting bar or perches can be placed to allow the chickens their preferred elevated spot to sleep without being placed above the nesting boxes so that poop can be scooped up and cleaned easily. If the bar is supported at each end versus at intervals along its length, there is less impediment to cleaning.

The interior height of the chicken coop is also important. A chicken coop that is tiny will require more bending down and effort to clean than one that is tall enough for a human to stand up at full height to wield a broom or fork.

Passive ventilation for the coop will also keep the air healthier for the chickens during all seasons and allow obnoxious odors to escape with air movement throughout the structure 24/7. Gable vents, soffits and windows should all be protected from predator intrusion.

4. Can You Have 2 Chicken Coops?

Just as you can have more than one stable block or horse barn, you can have more than one coop. It all depends on how many horses you need or want to house, and how many chickens you want to keep.

You can have as many chicken coops as you like but the common reasons to have more than one is actually similar to the reason equestrians add more structures to their properties for horse housing:

• They bought more stock after embarking on the initial foray into keeping animals at home and need more housing – after all, isn’t there always a reason for just a few more chickens.
• The purpose of the second structure is for special needs such as quarantine or recovery space for injured or diseased stock – sadly these things happen and having a separate safe zone can be a godsend.
• The enterprise includes breeding more stock so to protect moms and babies from adverse actions of other stock they have their own space – sometimes females without babies can ‘pick’ or ‘peck’ on the mom’s and/or their babies and cause harm to them despite a mother’s best protective actions.
• There isn’t room on the property for one large structure so 2 are needed to house the needs of the numbers of critters owned.

5. Why are Amish Built Coops So Popular?

If you were contemplating giving your child driving lessons, would you use someone that was a bad driver or who had limited experience behind the wheel? Like their sibling, or their best school pal? If you were buying a high-end car, would you buy one designed by a team that were experienced in designing tractors? Probably not. You’d probably seek a source that was renowned and established for producing the best of what you want to buy.

When it comes to buying most things to do with livestock and agricultural needs, the heritage of the Amish is world renowned for quality of craftsmanship and the use of sturdy materials. Artisan timber peg horse barns, log homes, sheds and storage needs aside, the chicken coop is a mainstay item in Amish lifestyle and has been for centuries.

When you combine Amish know how in design for form, fit and function, with modern day materials like LP Smartside siding and specialist floor coverings and utilize their knowledge and carpentry craftsmanship to build the coop, you can rest assured that the result will be stellar.

6. Chicken Coop with a Run?

The sad fact is that chickens are a tasty snack or even plaything for predators and keeping them confined to a covered run can help address safety and security concerns for the flock. Inevitably that chicken will cross the road given the opportunity. Consider the options of free range, fenced yard space or chicken pen as you would letting your kids loose in the garden.

Many of us grew up being told by our parents to go out and play in the garden or take our bike for a ride. I don’t know about you but when Mom thought us kids were bike riding just down to the end of the lane, we were in fact taking great adventures out further than that! When we headed out riding ponies or donkeys (yes, donkeys!) on long summer days and Mom told to stick to the bridlepaths, we were in fact traversing field and stream, riding village to village on busy narrow winding roads. Either playing at being John Wayne atop a steep ravine surveying the territory or trotting our little beasties as fast as possible to the local sweet shop.

Naturally, you can’t always keep your kids in a fenced yard and well protected and away from possible nefarious preying individuals or harm from moving traffic. Even the family dog may climb or jump a fence or dig out from its limited space in the garden given half the chance. Hens on the other hand are somewhat easier to confine.

If you are home and can keep watch over the flock during the day, then free range or a fenced yard may suit you fine. Losing the odd bird or seeing your flower garden rifled may not bother you. But if you want to ensure the flocks protection and safety, both from their own devices and that of predators a chicken run is a great idea.

And of course, you can always let them ‘out to play’ from time to time when you can supervise. Chickens are great entertainment. While they don’t break out a performance like an AGT (America’s Got Talent) contestant their antics and interactions can be fun to watch.

7. Are Chicken Coops Safe?

Well, I’ve never had one jump out and bite me but perhaps that’s not what the asker meant. Is a chicken coop safe for your chickens. I don’t know. Is it? You might ask is a particular car safe to drive or is a horse safe to ride? It will all depend on the car or the horse and in the ability, of you, the person involved in the activity to act and conduct yourself appropriately.

A sturdy and well-built coop, that offers bars or screens on windows, is set off the ground but secure from invasion with a run that is fenced down beneath grade to prevent digging in or chicken Houdini antics is a good start toward safe chicken housing. But it’s not much good if you leave the door open at night either because you forget or because you just can’t get home in time from work. You can address this issue by the way, by adding a secure run to the coop and having automatic door ‘hatches’ from the coop to the secure pen or run area on a timing device. Such devices can even be connected via GPS systems to adjust automatically for the daily minute changes in daylight hours.

Just as you can’t tell whether a car is safe to drive just by looking at it from a distance, an investigation into its road worthiness is required. In the case of the horse, you must watch it ‘go’ or trot up and down to even start the process of whether it is sound for the job, never mind whether it is going to be compliant and obedient to ride. Examine the chicken coop carefully from all aspects.

Is a chicken coop safer than no chicken coop at all? Certainly. If you own a horse and let it free range it may be more likely than a chicken to travel far and wide, so unless you have a zillion acres of open range maybe not a good idea. It will likely get hurt or even stolen. Similarly, if your chicken keeping property is in an urban area, near woodland or in a vicinity where aerial or other predators are common (including free ranging neighborhood dogs), a covered fenced area or covered pen may be needed to keep your chickens as safe as possible.

Remember farming is a 24/7/365 activity. There are no ‘off’ days. Any time off the farm for the farmer requires organizing cover from persons qualified to undertake any animal husbandry chores. While keeping a few chickens doesn’t make you a full-fledged farmer, the responsibilities for any critter can be onerous, especially over time. A bit like getting a puppy for the children. Who walks and cares for the dog now!

8. Do Chicken Coops Need Electricity?

We could all live off the grid right? Well O.K., perhaps many of us would struggle without all the niceties that electricity provides. Chickens don’t have the same life experience from which to judge so like a kid that has never had a TV or screen to look at and doesn’t miss it in their life, you won’t find your chickens whining endlessly about how much they need electricity even if there are other chickens in the area that enjoy heated chicken housing, electric fans in summer.

Chicken keepers on the other hand may enjoy the provision of electricity to the hen house. While heating chicken houses in winter is not necessary for the chickens (indeed many experienced chicken keepers advocate against it), the option of having lights and power for commercial grade fans (safer than residential as motors are sealed from dust and hence fire risk is mitigated), and the power of power is often appreciated.

Electricity can be supplied by many means aside from hard cable. Solar panels, battery hook-ups and other options exist to power the needs of the coop. Do some research. You’ll be surprised at how innovative the methods are for providing power to the coop.

9. A Chicken Coop Versus a Rabbit Hutch

You’ve probably heard the expression, “There is no such thing as a stupid question.” We’ll go with that because surprisingly a rabbit hutch can be converted into a chicken coop. I had to look it up. I’d never thought of it.

A rabbit hutch can be secure as a coop. It is usually off the ground and given it has a dark space for sleeping and enough room for the number of chickens that will reside within it. There should be a distinct lack of rabbits currently shacked up inside as the two species don’t co-habitate well. A bit like you and your mother-in-law.

10. Why Are Chicken Coops Off the Ground?

Would you rather sleep on a Japanese tatami mat (a straw like mattress or carpet) on the floor or off the ground on a mattress on a cot or bed? While space restrictions, communal living spaces, the health of the human back and its alignment, and the idea that cooler temperatures exist at floor level than higher up in humid, hot climates are reasons for the traditional floor sleeping habit in Japan, the chicken enjoy no real benefit of such ideas.

For most Westerners the idea of sleeping on the floor also means too much bending down and trouble getting up, (this is a problem I have encountered with sleeping in a Japanese home). Space is not at such a premium on this side of the planet so aside from the Murphy bed, the bed that folds up into a wall for studio apartment living, most folks appreciate the comfort of a regular bed. Chickens also feel happier sleeping off the floor.

In fact, for chickens there are significant health issues that come with a coop at floor level.

The coop will be more prone to flooding, and water that stands beneath it may cause mold. There will be more pests such as mites, rats, and mice. Plus, there is a higher likelihood of issues with predators digging under the sleeping quarters and entering the coop at ground level. The chickens cannot do what all birds like to do for safety when they sleep, and perch as high up as they are able. This elevation can sometimes provide safety from predators that are not able to climb.

For the human caregiver, cleaning chores, egg collecting and feeding regimens are also easier when the coop is off the ground as less back breaking bending down is required.

Want to have a show-stopping flock? Consider the Onagadori! The Onagadori chicken is a type of breed native to Japan that’s active and curious, with a medium body and gorgeous, long tail feathers. Despite its intelligence and docile nature, Onagadori is one of the rarest birds to find as it’s considered critically endangered.

Photo credit: pipanews.com

Before buying or adopting an Onagadori, ensure you are aware of its care requirements. Here are some tips to keep your chicken happy and healthy:

Onagadori Overview

Onagadori translates to “honorable fowl” in Japanese, with good reason! This breed is historically from the Nayoga province of Japan, with records of their species going as far back as the Edo period (1603 – 1867). Due to their unique appearance and luxurious plumage, they were particularly popular with wealthy landowners and were even pets of samurai!

Despite their popularity, the breed is quite rare now due to nearly going extinct a few years into the Meiji era (1868 – 1912) and, consequently, are an expensive bird to get since few breeders exist outside of Japan.

Japanese Onagadori hens are fiercely maternal and will defend against any perceived threat to their chicks, sometimes to the death, so they require considerable efforts to ensure they’re protected from predators.

This breed is highly intelligent and has shown incredible memory retention! They pick up commands quickly and are very docile; some owners even keep them as indoor pets! Despite their plumage, they’re relatively easy to care for and hardy birds that are great for families with small children.

This breed lives an average of 10 – 15 years and will lay approximately 25 eggs yearly, so it shouldn’t be raised for egg production.

Photo credit:  https://domesticanimalbreeds.com

Onagadori Appearance

Onagadori chickens are known for their long colorful plumage, and their appearance is often compared to that of a peacock. The colors and patterns on their feathers can vary greatly, depending on the breed. Some common colors include blue, green, black, brown, and white.

What sets them apart from other ornamental breeds is their long, sweeping plume of tail feathers that will typically average 2 meters (~6ft) in length.

Onagadori is fairly small in size, with hens weighing an average of 3lbs and males 5lbs.

Onagadori Temperament

Onagadori are active and curious birds. They love to play and will constantly be exploring their surroundings. They’re extremely intelligent and have been used in animal cognition tests for years.

One important thing to keep in mind is that Onagadori are docile and not broody but have very high maternal instincts and are extremely protective of their eggs and chicks. If you have young children around, it’s essential you teach them how to navigate caring for the birds while they’re near hatchlings.

Onagadori Care

Japanese Onagadori birds are considered a small-to-medium breed that’s active, curious, and loves to explore. They’re heat-tolerant birds that don’t do well in colder climates, so it’s best to raise them in warmer areas or as inside pets.

Regarding feeding, the Onagadori requires a diet high in protein, or they’ll become lethargic and withdrawn. Care should be taken to ensure their tail feathers are kept clean and free of mites or lice. Some breeders will use light silk ribbons to tie the feathers, though this isn’t a permanent solution.

Onagadori Coop Needs

Coop Size

The rule of thumb is a minimum of 4 sq ft per bird, but Onagadori have the extra complication of their long tail feathers. Some keepers opt to have this breed as an indoor pet where it’s easier to keep them out of dust and mud. However, they still require the typical things of all breeds: nest boxes, perches, and areas to run around, so we recommend a spacious coop that can accommodate this ornamental chicken breed.

Egg Laying

These hens are not typically prolific egg layers, producing an average of 50 eggs per year, and aren’t particularly broody (meaning they don’t like to sit on their eggs to incubate them), so you won’t need many nest boxes to accommodate your flock.  A six-nest box coop (like our Quaker model) is a good option for a small flock.

Temperature

Since Onagadori aren’t great at handling cold weather, considerations will need to be taken to ensure they’re warm and cozy in their coop. Adding an electrical kit with a heated roost are fantastic options that will keep your flock happy.

Amenities

The biggest consideration is how to keep their tail feathers clean. Many breeders prefer to build coops with high perches so their feathers can hang freely without getting soiled.

Another important consideration is their recreation area. These birds are intelligent problem solvers that need plenty of space to forage and play. Some breeders even offer a “petting zoo” with a variety of enrichment items such as branches, rocks, and twigs. If you’re just getting started keeping chickens and want to go a traditional route for ease, we recommend a coop with an attached, fenced-off run areas, such as our Combination or Tractor models.

Conclusion

Staring your own Onagadori flock is a fun and exciting project that will give you years of enjoyment, as these beautiful birds make great pets. However, they require careful attention to their needs to maintain a healthy environment. Luckily, we’re here to help! Contact us to learn how we can create a perfect coop for your new flock that ensures your Onagadori are happy and well-kept for years to come.

More rare breed chickens…
The Ayam Cemani
The Dong Tao

Ayam Cemani is a rare breed of chicken that is known for its dramatic all-black appearance. While it’s typically a hardy breed, this gorgeous bird needs special care if you want to keep it healthy and happy. Here’s what you need to know about Ayam Cemani care to ensure your new flock thrives for years to come.

Ayam Cemani Overview

The Ayam Cemani breed originated in Sumatra, Indonesia, where it’s rumored to have magical capabilities that connect the living with their ancestors and is considered a good luck charm! The breed is famous for its all-black feathers, face, and skin (some feathers will have a blue/purple iridescence under certain lights).

Its crow is distinct and is actually used as a foghorn on boats, even today!

They’ll live an average of 6- 8 years and are considered intelligent, friendly birds with an even temperament.

Appearance

Despite their goth look, the Ayam Cemani chicken has a gorgeous iridescent sheen under bright light, with some referring to it as “peacock-like.” The most-prized chickens have black matte coloring on their feathers, eyes, wattles, and combs.

The roosters are typically around 5 – 6lbs, while the hens are slightly smaller, usually around 4lbs. Their eggs aren’t black but instead a muted pink or cream, and hatchlings take around 21 days to come out of their shells.

The most prized (and therefore, most expensive) birds are entirely black, with waiting lists that can be years long! If you’re less picky or on a budget, consider looking for “lower grade” Cemanis, as it’s common to find “lesser” quality birds with grays, greens, and blues throughout their feathers or comb.

Despite their broad chests and muscular thighs, these chickens are rarely raised for meat.

Temperament

The Ayam Cemani breed is a fairly relaxed bird, but they’re not considered “cuddly.” Many families have reported their flocks were tolerant of human kids and were able to be hand-fed easily.  However, they appear to have good maternal instincts and will protect their young if they sense a threat.

They are considered an intelligent breed and can recognize their owners.

Ayam Cemani Care

When it comes to caring for your Ayam Cemani, you’ll want to keep in mind that they originate from Indonesia, so they are relatively heat-tolerant. Surprisingly, though, this breed seems hardy in winters, too, so long as their coops are well-maintained.  Make sure they have plenty of fresh water and a warm place to sleep and don’t expose them to extreme temperatures. They also need plenty of food, including fresh fruits and vegetables.

Coop Considerations for Ayam Cemani Flocks

Coop Size

A minimum of 4 square feet per bird is necessary for a comfortable and healthy coop. Ayam Cemani should be allowed access to the outdoors often, but ensure their area is covered when it rains or snows.

Since the Ayam Cemani chicken is a medium-sized bird, many of our coop options are excellent choices. If you plan to have a small flock of 2 – 10 chickens, the Lean-To and Tractor models are great ways to get started keeping Ayam Cemani chickens.

However, if you want to give them the best experience with maximum space that lets your flock grow organically, consider the Combination coop with an included fenced-in run area that gives them the room they need to feel happy without worrying about predators or weather.

Egg Laying

These hens aren’t significant egg layers, usually clocking in around 80 eggs per year, and seem to have cycles where they’ll take a break after 20-30 eggs that last around three-to-six months. A coop with at least six nest boxes, such as our popular Quaker model, would be perfect for a starting flock.

Despite being considered excellent mothers to their young, Ayam Cemanis aren’t typically big on nesting, so you’ll probably need to incubate eggs artificially, maintaining a temperature of around 99.5F (37.5C) degrees with humidity around 50% – 55%, increasing it to 60% for the last few days of incubation.

Temperature

While they originate from tropical climates, Ayam Cemani is a hardy bird that can handle a broad spectrum of seasons. The key to keeping a flock during winter is ensuring their coops maintain a consistent temperature that’s dry and warm. You may want to consider adding an Electrical Package with the Heated Roost option to your coop build that ensures you’ll be able to keep the perfect temperature year-round.

Amenities

Opinions vary on whether or not this breed should be considered “flighty” as it often comes down to the individual bird. However, it’s always a wise idea to keep a fenced-off area that prevents them from getting away and makes it difficult for predators to get in, so consider adding a chicken run that’s directly attached to your coop.

Since the Ayam Cemani is an easygoing bird, many of the amenities we recommend help you maintain the flock easily. Adding automatic doors allows you to automate their routines with wifi or on a timer, a perk that comes in handy during brutal winters! Litter trays and feed rooms go a long way toward streamlining your chicken’s care and are no-brainers for those serious about maintaining a flock for many years.

Conclusion

The Ayam Cemani breed is a showstopping bird that’s docile, friendly, and intelligent. If you’re interested in keeping a flock of these gorgeous chickens, ensure they have ample space to run and a warm, cozy coop that gives them the perfect environment to lay their eggs.

If you’re ready to care for an Ayam Cemani flock but aren’t sure how to get started, we’re here to help! Check out our current stock of readymade coops, or contact us to build a customized coop designed for this unique breed of chicken.

More rare breed chickens…
The Onagadori
The Dong Tao

One of the most unusual and sought-after breeds has to be the Vietnamese Dong Tao chicken. This breed of chicken is known for its thick legs and unique color variations, but its intelligence and calm demeanor mean you’re sure to fall in love with this striking bird.

While the Dong Tao chicken is exciting to keep, there are a few things you need to know to take care of them properly, as their rareness on the market means you’ll have a harder time finding information on how to keep them healthy and happy. This guide will discuss some of the most important things you need to know about Dong Tao chickens to have a thriving flock.

Dong Tao Chicken Overview

Originating in the Khoai Chau district of Dong Tao, Vietnam, this breed of chicken was originally reserved for royalty and rituals.

The Vietnamese Dong Tao chicken is one of the more exotic breeds currently available on the market, with prices ranging in the hundreds for a single bird. These birds are known for their impressive leg muscles (where they get their “Dragon” nickname from!) and coloring variation, which can include blues, purples, and even greens.

The Dong Tao is an intelligent bird with a keen sense of hearing and sight. They also enjoy a good amount of sunlight and fresh air. As hens, they’re not great egg layers, producing around 1 – 2 eggs per week.

They are, however, raised for their meat as their rareness means they’re considered a delicacy. In addition to their culinary potential, Dong Tao chickens make great pets for people who enjoy working with animals. They are gentle creatures and are known for being very intelligent.

Dong Tao Appearance

These birds are striking, with their bright colors and muscular legs. They average around 16 inches in length and can weigh as much as 5.5 lbs.

Their colorings are typically a mottled mix of blues, greens, browns, reds, and black. Their combs and wattles are almost always some shade of red.

Photo credit:  https://cs-tf.com/dong-tao-chicken/

Their legs and feet, however, are the first thing you’ll probably notice. They have powerful, thick legs and feet, which are used to tread water and jump. Their legs often look swollen and crackled, but this is normal, and one of the breed’s distinguishing characteristics.

Dong Tao Behavior

These birds are gentle creatures that enjoy being around people. They get along well with other animals, including cats and dogs. They’re curious by nature and will explore their surroundings.

However, these birds love to roam and will become bullies to other small animals and chickens if kept in too small an enclosure.

Dong Tao Diet

Dong Tao chickens are foragers and will eat a variety of things, including grass, insects, and other bird feed. They should be fed a balanced diet with hay, fresh grains, legumes, and seeds. A ratio of one cup of food per egg laid is ideal.

Dong Tao Care Tips

• Provide a large, secure enclosure for your Dong Tao chicken. They love to roam and will become bullies if kept in too small an enclosure.
• Feed them a variety of foods, including seeds, vegetables, and fruits. They’re also opportunistic feeders and will eat just about anything they can find.
• Watch their water supply closely – these birds are notorious for getting thirsty quickly and may drink excessively from the wrong source (such as from a dirty water bowl). Make sure their drinking water is clean and fresh.
• These birds will need lots of enrichment to stay happy. They’re extremely intelligent and get bored quickly. Provide them with various toys, such as nesting materials, swings, and perches.

Dong Tao Coop Needs

Coop Size

Dong Taos need more room than your standard breed because of their opportunistic feeding habits. A minimum of two square feet per bird is recommended, but three square feet is better. They can be kept inside as pets; however, they may become destructive if cooped up too much.

Egg Laying

Dong Tao hens usually lay one egg per week, but some may lay up to three. Consequently, they don’t need many nesting boxes – just one or two. A six-nest box coop, such as our Quaker model, is a good option for a small flock of chickens since it’s easy to maintain and can be used in urban and rural settings.

Temperature

Dong Tao chickens are from an area south of Hanoi, where the climate is hot and humid. Their ideal temperature range is 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Accordingly, they do best in a warm environment with a humidity level of at least 50%. They can tolerate some colder weather but should be introduced long before the first frost so their plumage can grow as they become acclimated to the temperature changes.

Amenities

Dong Tao chickens need large enclosures to explore that lets them be active while safe from predators. For a breed so intelligent and playful, we recommend having the enclosure directly attached to your coop, such as our Cominbation or Tractor models. This way, the chickens can roam freely but can always be close to their coop mates.

If you’re located somewhere that sees colder temperatures, we strongly recommend a heated roost to protect your flock from harsh winters.

Conclusion

Maintaining a flock of these rare birds is a joy, and with a bit of preparation and attention to detail, your Vietnamese Dong Tao chickens will thrive in their new home. Just be sure to provide them with the proper environment and toys to keep them entertained and happy! When you’re ready to build your coop, you can compare our current coops or contact us to help create a custom coop perfect for your new feathery friends.

More rare breed chickens…
The Ayam Cemani
The Onagadori

After careful consideration, we have decided we will no longer be including playsets in the Horizon Structures product line. We appreciate your understanding and thank you for your support. If you have any questions or need assistance, please feel free to reach out to us on 888-447-4337 or sales@horizonstructures.com.

Any parent can attest that their offspring possess boundless amounts of energy, far in excess of any adult. It’s reasonable for you to feel that you can’t keep up with them. Nevertheless, one of your jobs as a parent is to help them burn off this energy in healthy and productive ways.

Ideally, you want to find fun and creative activities that will spark their imagination and enable them to grow and develop both mentally and physically. What better way to do this than transforming your backyard into a playground? To help you turn your backyard into a playground area your kids will look forward to spending many enjoyable hour all year round, we’ve consulted experts in building quality outdoor structures and gathered tips. Now let’s get to work with some playground tips!

Tips to help you transform your backyard into a playground

If you provide your child with secure places to play – alone or with others, introduce them to new activities like sports or allow them to attend enriching summer camps, you will be fostering their development in so many ways. They will look back on the experiences they had and the memories they made with fondness, knowing that they were filled with learning and joyous living.

Your child’s delight when playing various games or enjoying a lovely wooden swing play set, for example, will encourage them to spend more time outdoors. These days, kids are surrounded by an overabundance of technology and are naturally drawn to various electronic devices, so it’s not surprising that they spend less time playing outside. However, spending time outdoors is crucial for their healthy growth and development.

Below are five simple steps to transform your backyard into a playground and begin reaping the many positive benefits of outdoor, physical activity for your child …

1. Choose the space

The first step towards turning your backyard into a playground area for your kids is identifying the most suitable location.

• Find a level surface.
• Evaluate natural shade. To keep your playground usable even when the sun is at its hottest, look for a spot that is partially or fully covered by trees. Additionally, vegetation may offer some protection for your playground equipment from other environmental factors, such as rain and snow. Alternatively, consider putting up canopies in case you don’t have a good spot with natural shade.
• Keep it safe. Avoid placing your playground next to a busy street, electrical wires, or anything else that could be dangerous to the kids.
• The space must bevisible from your house so you can always watch keep an eye on your children and their playmates.

As soon as you decide on the area you want to dedicate to your playground, start cleaning it and preparing it for the next steps.

2.  Select a playground-appropriate base

Choosing a suitable and secure base for the children’s play area is the next step in creating your backyard playground. The base will serve as the foundation of any playground equipment you set up. For example, if you plan on installing a vinyl playset with slides, experts recommend using sand or grass (artificial or natural). Because they’re soft and fall-protective, these surfaces are low cost, readily available natural options for your playground.

Another great choice is rubber because of its nonslip and absorption properties. That’s why many public playgrounds prefer to use a rubber base. Chose rubber mulch or playground tiles/mats. There are many options and varieties available.

3.  Involve your children in the process

Since you’re making this space for your children to play, learn about the outdoors, and socialize with others, it’s essential to involve them at every stage. Listen to your kids, show them you respect their input, and accommodate their preferences wherever possible. There are many opportunities to customize the playground to fit the needs and interests of any child.

Transforming your backyard into a playground is an excellent way for the whole family to work together and bond. By working together from the very beginning, your children will be invested in the project beyond their playtime and feel that they’ve created something truly their own. For example, think about adding a playhouse to the swing set that they can decorate with their own personal touches. Let them select the colors or choose which options and accessories they’d like to add.

4.  Use the outdoors to their full potential

You might have thought that the best way to transform your backyard into a playground is to ensure a completely clear space. However, we suggest the opposite – embrace nature and use existing features on your property if possible. Don’t cut trees but implement them into your design and teach your kids to respect and value nature. Always remember that an individual’s mental and physical well-being can benefit greatly from time spent in nature, making this a crucial factor in a child’s growth and development. Therefore, incorporate the existing, natural features of your yard as you begin turning it into an enjoyable playground.

5.  Choose playground equipment

Lastly, here comes the most fun playground tip! Sit down with your kids and choose the playground equipment they’ll enjoy. Swing sets are always a hit and for a good reason: they’re fun for kids of all ages. On top of that, you may add a cute seating area where kids can play board games, a climbing structure with slides or even a sandbox.

Final thoughts

We hope our article inspired you and helped you design and create a fun space for your kids to play. It’s crucial to keep quality and safety in mind and reach out to reputable pros when ordering equipment, especially swing playsets, for your playground. Now go, transform your backyard into a playground and make sure you have a lot of fun during the process!

Deciding between the flexible pavilion that accommodates multi-size gatherings; the elegance of a commercial pergola to define an area of natural beauty and perhaps provide a park bench inside on which passers-by can sit and reflect, or showcasing events on an open commercial gazebo bandstand can improve the enjoyment of a community event and offer sincere benefits to the participants.

One thing is certain. A fixed outdoor living structure offers a permanent advantage over tents with their peg and line tripping issues, concrete lot damage with peg installation, and their ‘Wizard of Oz’ moments. All of which add up to a high-risk assessment with tent use for lawsuits being issued against the town or organization, from people becoming accidentally hurt while attending an event.

Here are a few tips to consider as you embark on embracing the outdoor living structure lifestyle for your project:

Costing and Capabilities

It is inevitable that the question of funding the outdoor living structure will come into play. The least expensive option is not always the best choice, so carefully consider the actual planned use of the space and identify future possible needs when it comes to sizing and siting.

For example, a pergola may be less expensive than a pavilion, but its use will be limited during poor weather. A summer shower can ruin an event, and if the structure is being used for winter holiday events (they make a beautiful gathering spot at vineyards and orchards for Fall harvest events and ski resort mixers on the slopes), it needs to have a roof.

Kitchen appliances and food/buffet dining set ups with hot plates, musicians’ equipment such as amplifiers and instruments, may require electrical service. Keeping these items safe and dry is essential. Thus, in these cases, a pavilion is a better choice than a commercial pergola.

On the other hand, a large gazebo can provide a ‘step up’ from the topography of a flat lawn or garden area, and highlight the event being held. Whether music is played, and singers perform, or speeches are being given, the sound will carry further afield and the audience will all have the opportunity to witness the participants in action.

The site that is chosen for placement of the structure should also be carefully considered.

A gravel path or garden surround can set off the structure adding aesthetic appeal and make access easy and mud free. But if the structure is placed near a pond or water source, there is a risk of flooding and wet ground causing even the most compacted gravel or stone base to move or subside.

Consider if vehicular access will be needed for placement of heavy items such as cookers or multiple items such as chairs and tables will need to be set up in the area and ensure that the structure is not placed in an area where it can be damaged by falling boughs from trees or excessive high winds.

Security Concerns and Storage Options

Lighting, fencing and security monitoring via a WIFI device or CC set up may be needed to ensure the structure remains unhindered during periods of inactivity. This is especially important if there are plans to house any supplies within the structure.

Securing a pavilion with overhead doors or curtains is a good way to protect the interior space from snow and bad weather, debris such as dead leaves and offers the ability to lock up the space to safely contain supplies such as tables and chairs and minimize the risk of vandalism or theft.

Corner members of structures can be protected from accidental damage from errant parking incidents with bollards or containers of flowers or shrubs.

 Pave It

Necessarily outdoor living structures used in a community setting will enjoy a lot of foot traffic during their use. Get ahead of the worn grass paths, muddy slip slide and possibility of lawsuits over people tripping or falling over with the installation of pavers or concrete.

Rubber pavers offer a good solution to sound mitigation, and stone or concrete (the latter can be laid with a special machine to both color the concrete and given an effect of paving if preferred to actual stone laying), are all good options.

Cover an apron area around the structure in addition to the undercover space for pergolas and pavilions and for gazebos similarly offer multiple paths and access from different directions to maximize freedom of movement around the structure during crowded events. This will help improve safety for the audience and for the performers and improve event management as it allows the ‘players’ orchestrating the provisions and attendees to come and go freely.

Pathways should be wide enough to allow passing of patrons and not be a single file option. Visitors may be pushing strollers or using wheelchairs, so consideration for disabilities and family use should be incorporated in the design. There is a litany of regulations in this regard, both Federal and State, so do your due diligence if the structure is in the public domain or to be utilized for public access.

Whatever ground surface cover you install make sure it will handle the application of salt or de-icing products if needed during winter and stay weed and maintenance free during summer. Bear in mind gravel paths do not handle snow blowing equipment or plowing well and paved surfaces cannot handle heavy equipment without cracking unless installed to premium cost specifications.

Making the right decision on materials and their application and specifications will help keep your labor costs down for many years, although an occasional reseal may be needed over time.

Roof Designs

The structure’s roof design and material will affect not just its ability to withstand high winds and snow loads, but also how rain, ice and snow are shed off the roof.

Guttering may be needed for a pavilion structure to mitigate dripping rain from the roofline, and the use of shingle versus metal roof products should be considered if icing and snow load is likely to be a problem.

Snow guards or ice guards should not be necessary as the interior/exterior temperature of the space covered by the outdoor living structure is similar but depending on use and location roof materials and design should be evaluated.

Light It Up

One of the great advantages of an outdoor living structure is it lends itself to installation of lights to add ambience and a practical aspect to use of the space from dusk into night.

The structure’s frame members can be hung with lights to achieve a romantic or party atmosphere and corner posts make perfect pillars for heavier lighting fixtures.

By making temporary lighting easy to accomplish with provision of fixed hooks, the hanging lights can be quickly removed and safely stored after events and plug-in speakers and lights can similarly be handled, while security cameras and lighting can remain year-round. The latter should be fastened at a height that makes them difficult to reach from the back of a pickup bed or without the use of a ladder.

Funding Ideas

Grants both private and public, funding from corporate entities or private individuals are all great means to fund the outdoor structure project. Larger manufacturers and providers of outdoor living structures often offer financing options, so don’t be shy to ask for help.

GSA compliant companies may be able to offer special discounts and terms.

Social media funding rounds on community platforms are also a great resource to explore if the community kitty needs replenishment to afford the purchase.

Cover an apron area around the structure in addition to the undercover space for pergolas and pavilions and for commercial gazebos similarly offer multiple paths and access from different directions to maximize freedom of movement around the structure during crowded events.

The provision of a covered chicken run adjacent to the coop resolves some of the common issues with keeping chickens ‘cooped up’ but not all.

Advantages of the free-range method of chicken keeping are many. Perhaps the most significant is the amount of money it can save on purchase of commercial chicken feed. Of course, you will need to ‘hunt and peck’ to find their eggs around the garden and may miss a few from time to time or scavenge an old egg without realization that it is not fit to eat. But the added benefits of their prowess at finding their own dining delights cannot be overlooked.

The middle ground between free range and cooping chicken keeping is the use of a chicken tractor and/or fencing an area for their safety.

The chicken tractor has become increasingly popular as a viable option for homesteading on a small or large property.

The efficiency of chickens to ‘grub around’ and mitigate pesky insects and bugs notwithstanding, the undeniable fact is that a free-range chicken is at risk for becoming dinner or even worse, entertainment, for fauna further up the food chain.

There are advocates on both side of the chicken wire fence on this topic, and if you are confused as to what method is the best choice it is smart to look at your own individual nature rather than that of the birds.

While certain breeds of chickens may lend themselves better to ownership by the neophyte backyard chicken-keeper than others due to their friendliness and overall egg production quality and quantity, it is you, the owner, who will need to examine yourself as to which chicken-keeping preference you should favor.

Questions to ask yourself may include:

• Do I have kids or other family members that will be upset by the loss of a bird or part of the flock over time?
• How much time do I have to search for eggs?
• Does my garden mean the world to me with flower beds and shrubs or will digging, foraging and dirt patches on the lawn cause no concern?
• Do I have room to move the chicken tractor about and the inclination and equipment to do it?
• How cleanable is a coop and what should I do to make sure if I choose a coop for housing the hens that it requires minimal labor?
• Do I have dogs or other pets that will trouble the chickens?
• Do I care what my chickens eat outside of commercial feed?
• How much do bugs in the backyard bother me?
• Will my kids be collecting eggs? An easy exterior collect coop can be a boon for busy families where you don’t want to walk inside the messy coop in your work shoes.
• What wildlife is in my environment, and will predation be a major headache?
• Can I lessen coop workload by using smart technology like coop doors on automatic timers? Can I afford these upgrades?
• Does your garden offer natural shade options for hot weather and natural shelter in adverse or inclement weather?

Well, you get the idea. There are options but only you can choose the ones that will work best for your individual lifestyle.

Chores can quickly become onerous after the initial excitement of growing chicks up into adults that lay eggs for use in the home kitchen passes, despite the benefits of the ample egg supply of known provenance.

There is a litany of resources on the pros and cons of different chicken keeping methods so no need to repeat them here. But the choice of which to pick will become clear once you examine the realities of the options. Get informed before you start! It’s a lot easier than figuring it out as you go along.

Thoughtful barn design features can help assuage the negatives associated with horse stall rest. Here are a few tips on equine stall layout and some helpful advice on how to navigate the confinement period and keep your horse or pony as happy and healthy as possible.

Divide and Conquer

There are many good reasons to have at least one dividing stall wall in the barn adaptable for combining two stalls into one should needs require. Foaling out a mare; housing a mare and foal; accommodation for a large breed of horse such as a draft horse; housing two or more animals such as donkeys together. In addition, a double stall can provide flexibility in space for the horse that is in rehab and requires more than the usual 10’ x 12’ or 12’ x 12’ stable but is not yet healed enough for turnout.

To help prevent boredom for the horse this stall should be carefully located. Placement of this stall could be close to an area of high activity such as next to a wash stall or tack-up area, a view to an indoor or outside arena where horses are exercised, or at the end of a barn where the open entry way offers some form of entertainment with a view of the house, backyard pool, driveway, or road.

The Lanai Option

Provision of a Dutch door with access to a covered area with limited space outside the barn is a great way to limit the horse’s access to turnout while still providing freedom of movement and a change of view.

Often colloquially referred to as a lanai due to its similarity in features to the popular patio/veranda/porch seen in hot regions such as Florida and Hawaii, it usually features a roof for shelter from the sun and rain and may be screened in some way from pesky bugs if situated in an area where excessive heat and flying insects are a problem.

If the barn design includes and overhang, a simple option is to extend the overhang from 4’ or 6’ to 12’ adjacent to one or two stalls. This will allow enough area to be converted with gates or temporary fencing to make an outside/inside lanai area if a Dutch door egress is provided.

This area could include rubber mats placed over concrete or it could be left as a stonedust surface to allow the later addition of rubber mats or a similar comfort flooring if needed.

Hang Tight

It is possible that part of the horses’ rehabilitation and recovery will require suspending an IV fluid hanger to administrate medicines and supporting fluids. This is a system of pulleys, cleats and ropes that can be mounted as a hardware kit to a wood post on a barn.

All barns should be built with substantial framing members and wood pillars are ideal for mounting these IV fluid kits. Placement in a stall of an additional wood pillar in the center of a front or back wall can be useful for the purpose and if a single stall is converted to a double stall the center pillar may suffice for use. When installed IV fluid kits should be checked to ensure there is no likelihood of a tube, rope or pulley becoming caught up on a pillar or other obstacle.

It is also possible that a sling to keep the horse from putting too much weight on a joint, soft tissue area or hoof will be needed. Substantial additional weight-bearing lumber may need to be installed to accommodate the sling depending upon its design.

While there is no necessity to build a full recovery stall with padded walls and a full veterinary clinic set up, the inclusion of a few simple factors in horse barn design can make the stalls flexible to accommodate temporary medical needs.

Aside from veterinary aids the confined horse will also appreciate toys and other products to minimize boredom. Hanging toys, special feed dispensers and other distractions can go a long way to keeping your stalled equine content.

Hand Walking Areas

The requirement for regular hand walking and stretching exercises should be expected to be part of the rehabilitation protocol after any period of confinement for the horse.

A center aisle barn with a wide aisleway offers the perfect all-weather space to take those first baby steps toward recovery. The exterior doors can be shut for security or left open to facilitate extra room to circle the horse and turn around.

If rubber pavers or rubber mats are utilized to cushion the center aisle and protect the horse from slipping and sliding on a smooth concrete surface, or is s stonedust base is installed and compacted, the center aisle can provide a safe area for hand walking the horse during rehabilitation. Remember to avoid tight turns if the horse has suffered a leg, shoulder, or hip injury.

Power Up

Routine veterinary care and the elevated level of care needed in the case of a stalled horse during recovery may be aided by having additional power sources for equipment, and video monitoring with Wi-Fi access in the barn.

Electrical outlets conveniently located to the stall will minimize the use of electrical extensions and the risk associated with their use, as well as negate the need for the horse to be moved more than necessary for evaluation during recovery.

Monitoring systems ease the mind of the caregiver and can give 24/7 views of the activity of the horse so any necessary adjustments to set up or practices can be made and provide a valuable insight into the horse’s mental condition.

Chew On This

Installation of metal edges for protection from chewing of wood by the horse on all exposed right-angled surfaces and tops of Dutch doors is essential to protect the building from the mischief horses can dish out when stabled.

During periods of extended confinement, the equine occupant is highly likely to ‘rail’ on walls with his teeth, kick out or rear in frustration and chew on the ledges of windows and edges of posts.

Smart barn design with properly constructed kick walls, grilled front walls and protected surfaces can greatly lessen the chances of damage to either the horse or the structure.

Seal The Deal

Before you add a horse to the stable in a new barn always protect interior wood surfaces from both chewing and staining by the application of a sealant. Not only will this action keep the walls protected from unsightly stains and marks, but this will also make cleaning the stall easier to accomplish.

Keeping a stalled horse’s environment clean and healthy requires a lot of effort and any labor-saving practice is a good idea to install at the outset.

Fresh Air Everywhere

Fresh air is essential for good health of the horse and should be especially considered in the design of a horse barn. Passive ventilation such as wire covered soffits (this protects from birds setting up house in the barn), gable vents, ridge vents, cupolas, windows, and Dutch doors can all aid in airflow within the structure.

In hot climates supplementing the movement of air by mechanical means such as the installation of commercial grade fans either on the ceiling, floors, or walls, (commercial grade offer sealed motors that are protected from dust and debris for fire safety), may be required for additional help in moving air through the barn and keeping the horses comfortable.

A sick horse on stall rest will need even more help managing his body temperature than a healthy individual, and provision of both safe heating and cooling options should be incorporated into the barn plans if possible.

Resources

Equine stall layout and design expertise can greatly aid in ensuring that whatever housing you choose, it has the adaptability to address future needs for medical care.

Choose a construction company that offers a variety of barn styles and will work with you on the budget as well as the aesthetics and the use of modern labor-saving materials that can help defray the need for future repairs and repainting such as siding and roofing options. Don’t be shy to ask for advice from the staff at the company on how to optimize your new barn design to accommodate horses that become ill or require special needs. Specialist horse barn companies are usually horse folks themselves, and have a wealth of experience in the design of horse housing that they are happy to share to help you make the best decision for your individual needs.

There are many awesome resources that address daily practices for caring for a horse on stall confinement. A suggested place to start is M Libraries, that offers supplemental notes on large animal surgery.